Targeting a younger clientele, designer Youn Chong Bak fuses the traditional Smalto man with a man more rough around the edges. Yet, still manages to maintain the ‘timelessness-luxe’ sense of appeal that we have all come to expect from the house.

In stark contrast from the Smalto man that we saw back in Fall 2008, this season a more fitted silhouette is seen. Trousers tucked into boots and loosened collars appearing from time to time, the styling can be easily described as something that would interest your modern intellectual, that secretly also has quite a daring side.

As jackets appeared traditional for the most part, at points a saddle stitch appeared on jackets in places that you would normally not find it. One of the collections many little details that overall contributed to the bigger picture. One of my personal favorites being, the braided leather scarves that flared out into a fringe at it’s bottom, usually accentuated with a bare and open collar.

Focusing largely on softness, fur can be now be found lining both hats and jackets. Whilst gloves come in lambskin and leather is thinned to give off a softened texture.

Detailing much appreciated for what would be a perfect winter.

The Full Collection / 67 Pics
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Starting off a week of shows with a much needed pit stop into Gaspard Yurkievich, I can honestly say that I am not the least bit disappointed.

Going into the show I expected Yurkievich’s usual perfect clean cuts, an incredible crop of both top models and new faces (like new kid on the block Oliver Welton), and a refreshed outlook on what to expect out of Paris through the season.

Leaving guests already in a great mood before the show eve started, bottles of vitaminwater in every flavor under the sun awaited everyone on their seats. Something I don’t think I’ve ever seen done before, but more than gladly welcome again.

As the show started and the instrumental ending to Portishead’s ‘Machine Gun’ played in the background, it was clear that this season’s man is more powerful and quite poetic. It was almost as if the track emphasized each step taken on the runway, which seemed perfectly fitting for the collection entitled, ‘In Love With Beauty’.

Later fading into Fever Ray’s, ‘If I Had a Heart’, the mood in the air was less tense than your average Fall/Winter show. Then again, that could be largely due to the crowds pleasant interest in the bags presented as a result of Yurkievich’s collaboration with Eastpack.

More Runway Shots

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James Smith/Models1

Thomas Penfound/D1 Management

Matthew Hitt/FM Agency

Peter Bruder/FM Agency

Danny Arter/Nevs

Johannes Linder/FM Agency

Photos: Kushintha

Please provide a source for these images as Homme Times when posting elsewhere

When you are looking for innovation matched with perfect ‘real’ styling, there is no one better to turn than Juun. J.

For Spring 2010, the Korean designer went light and worked with transparencies, turning them into sleeves and even layering them over pants. In a complete turnaround from last season, we now see heavy metal, with zips and zippers being the main focus.

If the cowboy style hats leaves you puzzled, consider it as a take from one of those movies where a dark rebel cowboy rolls into town causing chaos, yet is still as cool as can be. Channeling that same vibe into his latest collection, the transparencies doubled over linen, back in June, now become zippered wool over zippered leather, with hoods galore. Hoods came in the form of long knit sweaters transforming into something more, a hooded cardigan with cascading hem, and ribbed collar structures doubling as protective gear.

Using both shapes of wide and small, slimmer fits were contrasted with heavier tops, and mid-sections with detachable belts pieces adding even more pockets into play. While feet were for the most part gladiator sandals over wool socks, almost looking as perfectly closed trainers at first glance.

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In typical Juun. J fashion, the show’s end was turned into something more than the usual when models took to the runway in coats printed with golden studs, sprinkled with real studs close by.

If your like me and wanting to get your share of this collection ASAP, for a limited time, Seven New York is taking advanced orders for the collection, now. Consider the trousers mine.

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Taken Backstage at Burberry Fall 2010

Both on exclusive for Burberry in Milan, this season, Danny Arter and Sebastian Brice are begging to make a name for themselves as forces to be reckoned with.

Bearing charm just as fitting as their looks, though the models have not yet completed a full year in the industry, major powerhouses are already knocking, wanting more from the dashing Brits.

Their views of the collection & career, after the jump.

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Shows like the Gaspard Yurkievich Fall 2010 presentation always leave me refreshed and excited for new seasons. Reason being, with a new season we are always brought a fresh start. A start that derives from what was already there to begin with. Much like what you get with a Gaspard Yurkievich showing.

For Fall 2010, Yurkievich magnifies on his favorite techniques. Delivering his usual mix of what I often like to refer to as, ’softened structure’, new guidelines for what make up a basic piece are set.

As Portishead and Fever Ray tracks echoed throughout the venue, a mood hard to describe without using the words ‘powerful’ or ‘relaxed’ was set. with the same lightness of his Spring 2010, but with a much bolder statement, Yurkievich takes the mind on a journey into a world of lines. Readily equipping you with backpacks and necessary luggage.

Stripes, plaids, box checks, and diagonal lines; architecture made easy. Often cutting into other patterns or colors, with color blocking nearby or the main focus at times, the sterile topic of Geometry is softened into a patchwork print, showing up on standard button-ups. Suits versatile enough for both day and night, tailored with human portion in mind, yet with enough ease to debunk the whole idea of the typical men’s suit.

Delving into a world of pleats, we also standard t-shirts pinned as if ready to make a new top, coming together to make one, as pants go higher with pleats appearing from waist to below pocket.

Towards the shows end, suits gained a new dimension with stitched patches appearing on jacket tops almost as a boutonniere would appear, with a matching piece appearing on sleeve, in full effect as the last magical touch to a astonishing collection.

Sharp lines and traditional men’s dress, typically stiff and sterile, now given life and emotion.

Never in my wildest dreams would I have ever thought that I would now be need of a backpack, but there is something so clean and modern here that I love.

My coverage of the show/video to come soon, the full collection after the jump.

The Full Collection / 74 Pics
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