Described as being ‘the ultimate basic’, Kris Van Assche focuses on the central pieces of menswear, adding new interest to a major staple in the Dior Homme archives. In a collection dubbed ‘Coal’, the standard black suit takes on a fresh start, taken to with an approach of comfort and lightness. Comfort being the key term.

Deconstructing and re-building upon elements that have built the Dior Homme name, in a collection streamed live online, Kris Van Assche delves into the past, but looks towards the future. Displaying the under-workings of jackets, vest like tops and full-on ‘extra’ jacket fronts were stitched over classic jackets to make one solid piece. At one point, a fully complete jacket with two contrasting sides, one side being a lapel-less leather, was given and extra layer on it’s left side, re-inventing the traditional suit. The idea of contrast also found it’s way onto ties, as ties were shown in black with white lining the sides.

Shape being another force behind the collection, the funnel collars that we saw in 2009 are back in action. This time softer, when collars were not smaller that your standard bulky collar or rounded and in leather, collars were beautifully draped around the neck, as opposed the the more structured versions seen last fall.

Coats appeared in cashmere, cutting off right at the same length as trousers, billowing easily, stripping away the stigma of heaviness attached to the coats that always seem to provide much needed warmth in winter.

Cropped trousers took to the legs of every model, ranging from classically tailored to a more modern and demure drop-crotch. Perfectly displaying new boots adorned with straps and classic laces.

While it may look simple at first glance, the quality and the detail work truly makes for something special.

The Full Collection / 45 Pics

[Images: Andrew Thomas]