Raf Simons’ gothic army of models, with hair greased up and slicked down, answered the call of the wild for the Spring 2012 Jil Sander presentation in Milan. As expected, the much anticipated collection did not disappoint.

Simons still seems to be enjoying the color that he’s been injecting into his collections these past few seasons, he even came out for his bow after the show in a green snakeskin t-shirt. This time around it was more controlled, however. Instead of fully color blocked looks the “pop” was toned down and used mainly in the accessories and various items of clothing – always paired with a black or blue anchor – in different prints. These prints included multicolor snake skins, a swirling pattern, and an almost painterly effect was achieved on the open weave knit sweaters. The looks were both sharp, yet sporty. The drawstring snakeskin bags are a perfect example of this Gemini-like quality the collection holds. Star pieces of the show were the transparent outerwear, the stitched leather, and of course those snakeskin pouches that will end up on every respectable man on the go.

Some may say that Simons is moving further and further away from Jil Sander’s heritage, but if you really look at the collection you’ll find an abundance of wearable, minimalist pieces.  Obviously Simons isn’t trying to stay completely true to the brand‘s heritage, rather, he is constantly reinventing and updating the classic Jil Sander look.

The Full Collection / 34 Pics

[Images: GoRunway]

At the beginning of fashion week, editors and fashion crowds are always hopeful for a wonderful collection to start them off on a high note. Cue Raf Simons and his awe-inspiring Spring 2011 collection for Jil Sander shown at the Pitti Uomo 78 in Firenze, Italy.

Raf Simons commented, “This isn’t a silhouette-driven collection at all, as a matter of fact. I don’t want to compete with nature; I also don’t want to blend in. What I want is to create a tension, a certain friction or electricity, …”. Even though there is a lot of attention on the silhouettes, like any of Raf’s collections, his main message shined through. The showing was a decidedly “spring” collection with the many pops of electric color from the first group of color blocked exits to the floral printed button-downs (that seemed to replace the face prints of Spring 2010), and even on the bottoms of the shoes. There was also color on the geometric prints of some of the looks. But since you can’t live in bright colors all of the time, there were some darker offerings to get you through the night in style.

“We’re bringing people to an estate in the hills, showing outside in a tremendous garden with a view of the city below. Afterwards, there will be a dinner. We are creating an atmosphere of celebration …” said the designer – and celebration there will be, for a astonishing opening collection to the Spring 2011 season.

For video of the collection streamed live on June 17th, click here

The Full Collection / 44 Pics

[Images: Giovanni Giannone]

Interrupting your intensive Fall 2010 fashion week coverage, after tying up loose ends and catching up on things missed due to a season come and gone, I managed to catch up a few recent episodes of ABC’s Ugly Betty.

In it’s last season now and coming to it’s final episode, Betty Suarez (a.k.a America Ferrera) undergoes a mega transformation, coming full circle. While Amanda (Becki Newton) moves on from Mode to become a stylist, leaving Marc (Michael Urie) behind at the magazine.

As Amanda persuades Marc to move on from a failed relationship, he makes his way through the office in one of the face-printed pieces from the Jil Sander Spring 2010 collection, buttoned-up and paired over an almost fully blue ensemble.

Printed with a face from the works of Japanese artist Tsuguharu Foujita, the white long sleeved cardigan features a face on both front and back, giving off a feeling of lightness and serenity. Much the mood of the mainly white Jil Sander Foujita Project.

The cardigan retails for $695 and can now be bought on jilsander.com

The last episode of the show airs Wednesday at 10:00 on ABC.

[Runway Images: Getty Images & Pixel Formula]

Backstage at Jil Sander Fall 2010

Hailing from Elmer Olsen, an internationally renowned modeling agency, launching successful careers like Casey Taylor, Alex Loomans, and Gordie Walker, Welton landed one of the most coveted new-comer spots as a Jil Sander exclusive in Milan. You would be surprised to hear that he is actually originally from Chester in England, he moved to Canada at 12 years old and resides in Kelowna, BC ever since. After much favour from Raf Simons, there is no doubt that this will be the face to watch.

Before you did the show did you know of what a big impact it would have on your career?

No, I had no idea. I knew that Jil Sander was a good show to do, and obviously being exclusive was awesome to get, but I only realised what it might do for my career once I started talking to others about it.

What did you think of the industry before and how does that compare to how it really is?

To be honest, Fashion never really occured to me at all until after I became a model. Before that I was just coming out of my young teenage grunge phase, haha. I mean when I first started modelling, I began to imagine what it would be like to do Fashion Week and such, and what I thought then was definitely not how it actually is. Some parts are a little less glamourous than I first imagined, but definitely as fun as I hoped it would be.

Could you ever see yourself doing something like Jil Sander or becoming a model before?

Not at all, never even crossed my mind that I could ever get into this industry until I was scouted by my wonderful mother agent, Tara, from Elmer Olsen Models.

What did you think of the show?

The music was amazing, definitely downloaded as soon as the show ended. As far as the clothing, definitely my kind of style. I thought the patchwork theme was very cool, especially on the coats and jackets.

Hundreds of models go to a Maida and Rami casting, did you have any idea that you would be chosen as an exclusive?

Haha, don’t forget Niclas (Huntelmann) and James (Smith) were also exclusive for the show. But no, I never thought up until they said yes that they would ever pick me, even after I got optioned for it.

How was it working with Raf Simons?

Working with Raf was an awesome experience, as was working with all of the Jil Sander crew. They’re all an awesome bunch of people, very down-to-earth and very genuine people. Working with Raf was great, simply because you could see everyday that he was passionate about ever decision, such a perfectionist, but at the same time he was a lot of fun, always game for a good laugh. I think the days would have been much longer if it were all work and no fun, gotta have a laugh every once in a while to keep you sane, haha.

Always one to find the right balance between wearablity and originality, for Fall 2010 Raf Simons takes to his pre-school days and with with shapes (literally). In the form of meticulously cut jackets and ribbed knits, shape and form and the two major points on the Jil Sander agenda this season, as with any other Raf produced show.

Lining up a cast of runway regulars and dipping back into a few colors that we have all come to expect by now, last fall’s nipped in waists get traded in for rounded flaps and detailing that give off a sense of relaxed armor. Appearing throughout the show in more of a 3-d version on jackets and coats, if at the moment you are wondering how you would close such a jacket, subtle hook closures help do the trick. Helping to make your next winter a little more dapper, warm, and edgy…all in one move.

The Full Collection / 33 Pics

[Images: Andrew Thomas]

Crisp, clean, and well thought out, what more could you have asked for from Raf Simons’ Spring 2010 collection for Jil Sander. You may have put in requests for a more forgivable pair of shorts, but as they were sprinkled in both black and khaki throughout the show, it looks like Raf if still pushing them.

As long as he approves, the motivation to wear them will be long lasting. What a refreshing start to the men’s fashion season, no?

Transparent button-ups, face printed tops, icy pastel hues – love was in the air at Jil Sander. The Raf Simons way that is. With Innovation and a new way of movement kept in mind. If the renewed feeling that is brought about each Spring were to be captured into the form of clothing, this is how it would appear. In Numerous shades of white and off-white, and additions of pale blues, Simons gives us something to look forward to.

Tanks spitting into to pieces, each having pockets marks man’s mobility in the future. As with the polo that was expanded to make a blouson like top. Only a day since the show was presented and I am already awaiting the collections arrival to shop.

The Full Collection / 38 Pics

For his Fall 2008 collection for the house’s women line, designer Raf Simons adds a touch of men’s tailoring to women’s clothing. Today at the Jil Sander Fall 2009 presentation, Simons decidedly opted to put a  slightly androgynous twist on fashion. Nipped-in waists, meticulous cuts, and rich patterns display simplicity at it best.

As the boxy silhouette of the past now leaves us, no longer is the eye-catching hourglass figure limited to women. Opening with a structured black coat, the collection immediately stuck the architectural cords that are ever more present in today’s runway presentations. Rounded shoulders with fuller sleeves, though not new,  were executed to perfection.

As Fall/Winter signifies a direct and usual change of one’s outside surroundings, Simons captures the array of vitiating hues within the use of a warm yet sleek color palette. Mid-length day coats with somber dark grays transitioning into bolder muted reds embody the dark and brief change in climate from fall to winter.

The Full Collection / 36 Pics

[Images: Marcio Madeira]