Drifting away from the full-fledged masculinity of his Fall 2010 showing, which had professional fighters swap out the the likes of some noted house regulars, for his latest menswear showing, Jean Paul Gaultier once again dips into the pool of homoeroticism that has aided him in producing some of his most renowned works. With the backdrop for the presentation standing with the appeal of a modern Moroccan hammam, a sauna of sorts, models lounged about the set as if poolside, whilst looks breezed down the standard JPG runway with an aquatic desert bondage feel to them.

Mainly in a darker color palette, brightened up with camel colors and otherworldly prints that spark an urge for one to reach for a pair of 3-D glasses (playfully weaved into the collection), Gaultier continues to march on with his well-practiced way of creating clothes that are almost androgynous yet fully masculine. In a myriad of lighter fabrics seen crafted into voluminous shapes, the designer places you in an area of high humidity, dressing you in semi-transparent lace-front tops, presented linens and leather, as you pair them with easy-going trousers and less than serious gladiator-style footwear.

Displaying both relaxed and rigid within the same venue, Gaultier finds a happy medium between Moroccan relaxation and French bondage-wear by loosening up the appeal of suit-like dressing with sheer panels, and by also using rich silks that feature stars, stripes, and galaxies to get a calming point across.

The Full Collection / 51 Pics

[Images: Andrew Thomas]

Missoni Spring 2011, shot by Homme Times

Have you ever dreamt of what a good ol’ heart-warming trip into the countryside with Karl Lagerfeld would look like? Dream no more. The mounds of hay, the cuffed pants, and the denim treated to make it appear as if you had just finished rolling around in the dust, say it all. For Spring 2010, Lagerfeld expands on the western feel to his Fall 2009 campaign for Chanel. Taking us on a western ride that you will soon never forget.

Relatively a “normal” collection featuring it’s usual high contrast, sleek lines, and extreme luxury, this season a little Lagerfeld edge was injected into your average farm boy. With his male model of the moment Baptiste Giabiconi taking center stage throughout the entire collection, it is now becoming hard to remember a time when Brad Kroenig was the only man for Karl. Yet we should have seen it eventually coming.

Showcasing only 4 ensembles for men in a collection of more than 70 overall looks, a delicate yet strong message was made. In the end leaving the unanswered question – Are mean really brave enough for high-waisted jeans?

After opting out of showing his men’s collection in June, Gareth Pugh mixes the best of both worlds to create a dismal yet refreshing Spring 2010 presentation. Combing the world of men and women and showing both together on the same runway, Masculine shapes took on a new androgynous appeal. Instantly taking the mind to a place of, the men’s equivalent to women’s body-con dressing. Body-con meaning, “body conscious”. Making for something new this season to rival the “man-clutch”, seen both at Versace and Dolce & Gabbana recently.

Only launching his men’s line back in January but dabbling in the world of men for seasons now, Gareth Pugh has managed to find the easy medium that makes for absolute brilliance. When looking at a Pugh show, it is somethings hard to imagine what a world were to look like if the runway looks were copied complete form head-to-toe. Though when you take the time to strip away the outer layers and take away the edgy models, you come to find well-made pieces with ample throughout put into, with enough simplicity to be compared to a brand such as Burberry.

This season, Pugh kept with his new found love of the clean triangular patterns, which are seemingly becoming his signature, presenting them in the form of pants and even a textured jacket. Drifting away from absolute black, the designer showed a lighter color palette (well at least in terms of Pugh). Though mainly sending a message of how to perfectly play with proportion. Looking throughout the 13 look segment, you will see jackets cropped, trenches long, and shredded knit slightly oversized yet fit to standard.

The Full Collection / 13 Pics

Have you, for some odd reason, not yet taken a look at Burberry Prorsum’s Spring 2010 menswear show? You know, the one that was showcased back in June. Well, for those of you that are not up on the latest that Burberry has to offer in terms of men’s clothing, have no fear. For Christopher Bailey has shown it to us again, or for some for the first time gives you a peak, of the genius that is his current collection for the more than a hundred year-old house.

Taking us on a trip down memory lane, Bailey brings back the quilting, the trenches, and even the straps that may have driven you insane a few months a go (in a good way). The straps as that I like to refer to as bondage straps, even though I’m sure that isn’t up the Burberry customer’s alley.

This time around, letting the pastels of the women’s looks that also came down the runway cover for all of the pastel colored pieces we previously saw.

Using the same styling, same models, and ditching many of the accessories that were displayed back in June, you can just call this quick glimpse of menswear a tantalizing appetizer.

The 6 Re-shown Looks + Original Looks From June / 12 Pics

Let’s Play a Game! – Can You Spot The Difference? The the first image consists of the men’s looks during the womenswear show and it is paired with with it’s coinciding look from the house’s June show. Some of these looks are not like the others….

[Images: Marcio Madeira & Getty Images]

Always sprinkling his womenswear shows with the perfect mixture of men’s looks, Michael Kors is at it again. If diversity is what you look for in a collection, when looking at a Kors show, you are never left disappointed. From the colors to the cuts, even the model selection always manages to be absolute perfection. Only on a Kors runway could Lenz von Johnston, Garrett Neff, and Armando Cabral walk and completely fit together like pieces of a puzzle.

For Spring 2010, Michael Kors sits us down for a lesson in basic necessities and shape. What do you need this coming Spring in the world Kors might you ask. If your eyes are functioning properly, you will need to invest in a well-made white T-shirt, something cut-out or cut-off, and finally you might have to start taking a walk on the lighter side of life. Pastels that is.

Usually when I’m confronted with a pastel colored sweater, Easter instantly comes to mind. Change that to a pastel colored sweater with cut-outs that almost look as if you had a run in with a group of scissor holding 5 year-olds  – absolute perfection. The Easter Bunny could only wish to be so chic.

Fulfilling what men usually run to first, the show also featured a series of black pieces. Hooded jackets and Zip cardigans with detachable buttons (for those of you that can’t make-up your mind), head-to-black will seemingly always be huge.

Though the only thing that confused me about the little black segment was…why was Garrett Neff so covered up?! One of life’s unanswered questions I suppose.

The Full Collection / 15 Pics

[Images: Marcio Madeira]

Ever since David Neville and Marcus Wainwright opened their first Rag & Bone store, in the West Village, last September, I was instantly hooked. So when it came to menswear during the womenswear shows, you can easily call the Rag & Bone show my most anticipated (men’s show) for the season.

A show injected with attitude and realistic comfortable pieces is exactly what we got. Just like Balmain Homme, though you really can’t compare the two (you know why…), it’s the attitude and thought of what real people actually want to put on that keeps us looking each season. In the same setting as their Fall 2009 show, the 19 piece men’s collection portrayed a man not too far into what he wears as Donatella’s vision of her Versace man, but a man with enough sense to know what to add to a look to pull it together.

If you haven’t noticed by now, the the drop crotch pant is making a comeback. Seen here in the for of grey thermal pants. While it may take some time to get used to for those who like a more polished and out together look, I can say that I’m strangely starting to like it. Do you?

The Full Collection / 19 Pics

[Images: Marcio Madeira]

Everyone wants to be edgy, don’t they? Even those men that still refuse to let go of the classics that built the foundation of menswear. For his first men’s presentation, Phillip Lim helps blur the line where cool meets old fashioned and creates a simple and refreshing collection of pure modernity (with a little homage to a little of the 80s & 90s).

Leather in Spring/Summer. A concept we’ve grown to love since Ricardo Tisci refuses to give up the idea. If your in search of a Spring alternative to the leather drenched Prada Fall 2009 ensembles, but are afraid of dipping into the Prada collection in fear of being “so last season”, fear not. For Spring 2010, lambskin takes the place of Miuccia’s vinyl like leathers in the form of shirt, cuffed bermuda short, and the always edgy bomber jacket. My favorite lambskin take coming in the form of the black rolled-up “Guru” pant.

Later moving towards the more classic side of it all, Lim tackles the dapper man in everyone with a “windowpane” pattern. A boxed/lined pattern that can easily be mistaken as Hugo by Hugo Boss, but can only read as Phillip Lim through the rich wheat and oak colors.

The Full Collection / 27 Pics

[Images: Marcio Madeira]

Is tailored perfection possible when dealing with mounds of draped fabric? When it comes to decoding the aesthetic of brands such as Julius, it is important to think on a deeper level and to keep an open mind. It is designers such as Tatsuro Horikawa, that go against the grind and do what they feel is right at the current point in time, instead of the latest trend that you are sure to run in to whilst looking at the next set of shows to follow.

Showing in Paris for the third time since it Parisian debut back in the Spring 2009 season, the underground Japanese label that leans towards dressing with a more higher meaning in mind can single-handedly be responsible for why you may soon own a series of draped pieces. Yet the collection focused more on high contrast colors of blacks, white, and a few the few shades lay between.

Making for the secret underlying message here to be that of religion and polar opposites. Hard and soft, dark and light, loose and form-fitting. With the essential leather jacket placed over softer more fluid silhouettes, the message of old meets new in a run in between a leather jacket that modern man today might throw on and the religious robe that figures of the distant past would wear, was strictly innovative and something not easily reproduced.

The Full Collection / 38 Pics

Have you been doubting John Galliano’s work for Dior as of late? Too “mature” for your taste? Well JJohn Galliano isn’t called one of of fashion’s greatest minds for any old reason, now is he. Proving that he certainly has not lost his touch when it comes to putting on a true presentation worth watching, for Spring 2010 Galliano goes golden. Leaving very little to the imagination and a lot to live for. The exact mixture that makes menswear worthwhile.

As models descended from stairs in an abandoned pool once filled with water, but now graffiti and nothing but, John takes us on another trip around the world. Once again turning to his new found love of the middle east, the 51 piece collection can easily be described as a 1-2-3 step desert survival guide. Head wraps to keep away the sun that already bronzed your skin, less than form-fitting silhouettes for ease and comfort, and veils to protect from possible sand storms. Though I would like to think of the veils as Galliano’s Spring 2010 man marry his Fall 2009 frozen Russian brides, it less than likely.

From start to end the show was an eclectic mix of all the things that make us scream Galliano. From the famous newspaper print, which took to golden lettering on black briefs, to the leopard print shirt baring the designer himself – If you were not a fan of John Galliano before (which you would have to be insane to not have been already), this collection will be sure to make you a client.

If only Michael Jackson were alive. The 10 final looks draped with deconstructed button-ups would surly be hanging up in his closet, after multiple uses of course.

The Full Collection / 51 Pics

[Images: Marcio Madeira]