Not one to be shown up, Thom Browne had models fencing at Moncler Gamme Bleu’s Spring 2012 presentation.

From the beginning – model’s clad head to toe in uniform fencing equipment, to the end – a lone model in a quilted jacket and a transparent, hooded trane – the Moncler show kept the audience on their feet. The clothes themselves where heavily inspired by the sport of fencing. There was an ample amount of both quilting and codpieces, but underneath the gimmick there was a very strong collection. The collection was done in a simple color palette: white, stripes, and finally black, with the exception of a slight flash of red on a striped Speedo that was worn underneath a navy trench coat. Browne’s sharp separates and suits alike are perfect for any clean cut man.

While the production may first entice you and bring you in, Browne’s masterful tailoring will capture you and make you fall in love with Moncler Gamme Bleu’s collections season after season.

The Full Collection / 44 Pics

[Images: GoRunway]

Italo Zucchelli took minimalism to whole new levels for Calvin Klein’s modern, if not futuristic, latest collection.

This season was a quite versatile offering from Calvin Klein. From plain sportswear to sharp suiting and, of course, the classic CK jeans, there was everything you would ever need to keep you up-to-date and polished. The fabrics, which seemed built for surviving the Summer heat, and the color palette – ranging from the clinical whites, to the electric greens, the airy as well as the navy blues, all the way to the deep blacks – were a breath of fresh air. Zucchelli presented a stunningly wearable outing for the upcoming season perfect for simplifying your wardrobe.

I have a feeling that many men are going to work up a sweat to try to look good in these outfits, but by that time the clothes would look better “off and over there.” Ah, the wonderful conundrum of Calvin Klein.

The Full Collection / 44 Pics

[Images: GoRunway]

From the first sight of the leather and denim combo the audience at the Bottega Veneta Spring 2012 show on June 19th knew that this wasn’t going to be exactly the same thing from Maier that they’ve seen in past seasons.

The ever popular tie dye technique even  made an appearance on two pairs of pants; which seem to be the star of the show. The shocking suits that came in both electric green and blue were also popular points of discussion. Don’t fret, though, Maier provided enough sartorially elegant neutrals to last you through the season. Plenty of suits and separates were included in the lineup to polish up your wardrobe and quite a few check patterns were shown, in less garish colors, to keep interest alive. If you enjoy color but aren’t feeling the more eccentric clothing, there were multicolored bags shown that, like anything offered from Veneta, will be impeccable crafted.

Effortless luxury is Tomas Maier’s modus operandi at Bottega Veneta, and even with the injection of a little “acid prep” there wasn’t an exception for Spring 2012’s playfully dapper outing.

The Full Collection / 39 Pics

[Images: GoRunway]

John Varvatos decided to stay true to his brand’s aesthetics for Spring 2012 by putting on a show that attained a poetic spirit that, quite literally, flowed from start to finish.

These modernized seventies-inspired looks are reminiscent of the hair rock era when rockers and fashion designers alike were largely interested in leading the opposition against the structured feel of past decades. The derived influences of John Lennon and the hippie era of Saint Laurent’s menswear presentations can be seen through the impeccably draped tops, the beautifully worn jackets, and the loose-fitting suiting options. This collection is most definitely a go-to for anybody that wants to relive that glorious time in history or simply earn a few “cool points” within your social group.

Varvatos knows what his customers need and want out of their wardrobes. He gives them collection after collection that keeps them coming back for more. This time around, for the John Varvatos groupies, it’s free and easy for Summer.

Recommended listening: “Hair” by The Cowsills

The Full Collection / 41 Pics

[Images: GoRunway]

Like a well-oiled machine, a fashion week oddity was experienced when Christopher Bailey’s Spring 2012 collection for Burberry Prorsum was presented almost as scheduled. As the drapes covering the venue dropped and a very minimal backdrop was revealed to a packed room, the mood of the show was instantly set when the first model walked the runway in a dark moss colored parka that featured hand-shredded raw detachable raffia trims on the hood, giving off a rustic vibe. Rustic being the key term, Bailey continues to dabble in eye catching hues; silencing them in shade, yet giving them voice in rich knits, classic coats and brilliant accessories.

Facing the task of joining together tradition and modernity with each collection, Bailey makes the job seem almost easy through the natural styling of looks that accompanies. Slim silhouettes that a vast majority of men seem to turn to for an instant feeling of elegance, partnered with a youthful appeal, are sure to always things to look forward to in the designers work.

As many of us alike went insane over the house’s distressed boots in Fall 2010, we will surly be awaiting the arrival of the collections many multicolored shoes in stores. Designed with cork bottoms and woven tops, much-like the woven hats that topped the heads of models in various shades, the moccasin-like shoes are sure to become next spring’s ‘it’ shoe.

The Full Collection / 48 Pics

[Images: GoRunway]

Raf Simons’ gothic army of models, with hair greased up and slicked down, answered the call of the wild for the Spring 2012 Jil Sander presentation in Milan. As expected, the much anticipated collection did not disappoint.

Simons still seems to be enjoying the color that he’s been injecting into his collections these past few seasons, he even came out for his bow after the show in a green snakeskin t-shirt. This time around it was more controlled, however. Instead of fully color blocked looks the “pop” was toned down and used mainly in the accessories and various items of clothing – always paired with a black or blue anchor – in different prints. These prints included multicolor snake skins, a swirling pattern, and an almost painterly effect was achieved on the open weave knit sweaters. The looks were both sharp, yet sporty. The drawstring snakeskin bags are a perfect example of this Gemini-like quality the collection holds. Star pieces of the show were the transparent outerwear, the stitched leather, and of course those snakeskin pouches that will end up on every respectable man on the go.

Some may say that Simons is moving further and further away from Jil Sander’s heritage, but if you really look at the collection you’ll find an abundance of wearable, minimalist pieces.  Obviously Simons isn’t trying to stay completely true to the brand‘s heritage, rather, he is constantly reinventing and updating the classic Jil Sander look.

The Full Collection / 34 Pics

[Images: GoRunway]

As creepers continue to trickle throughout fashion at the moment, Ennio Capasa journeys to the pivotal point of the shoe’s success; the 1950s.
Leaving behind the cliché pompadour, instead opting for more of a strategic disheveled look, the Costume National designer injects his experimental approach to clothing into classic 50s’ fits and modern billows.

Always one to turn to when it comes to chic and easy pieces that actually have a sense of design quality to them, Capasa starts the collection off with subtle contrasts. Deeps blues meet lighter check patterned blues, woven leather befriends smoothed leather and loosely fit cropped tops are paired with slightly over-sized trousers.

Offering both ends of the silhouette spectrum, which was noticeably a very common occurrence during the 1950s, the designer finds a way to bring both day wear and formal wear into the same causal boat, using more causal fabrics and unpredictable cuts.

Surly the focal point of the collection, Capasa can now add a series of interesting vintage style brothel creepers to his ever growing archive of “boss” accessories. The black woven-top pairs, my personal favorite.

The Full Collection / 32 Pics

[Images: GoRunway]

Like being invited to a relaxing luncheon in the Italian countryside, guests at the Roberto Cavalli Spring 2012 presentation were seated out in a garden as models made there way out of a large vine-covered villa, wearing casual yet elegant outfits. The day’s looks were pairings of different colored vests, shirts and pants, along with leather shoes. These were mostly royal blue, beige, white and red. Even bolder were the color-blocked suits in yellow, royal blue (a must this season), bright pink and as Francisco Lachowski wore, white.

Details could be found in casual coats patched with either gray or different tones of leather, belts and ties, big over night bags and pulled up sleeves.

The Full Collection / 37 Pics

[Images: Gorunway]

Among one of the first shows to officially kick off Spring 2012 fashion week, Ermenegildo Zegna presents a breath of fresh air that propels us forward into a palette of rich and buttery hues, marking the end to Spring 2011′s on-going technicolor trend.

Translating muted shades of green and brown into a luxurious and easy-going collection, perfectly apt for a relaxed spring and summer, the new wardrobe of this seasons Zegna man consists of well-crafted pieces such as slim-cut suits, stone-like tops and bags in contrasting colors.

The Full Collection / 41 Pics

[Images: GoRunway]

Unveiling his autumn/winter collection last week at the Palais de Tokyo, one of Paris’ modern art museums, Kris Van Assche displays a series of looks that create a sense of comfort and coziness. A collection of long, thick coats paired with loose black pants and small boots draped the models. Channeling that style into a mix of elegantly tailored pieces, such as classic suits in relaxed fits and contrast wool collars, elegance is grounded in reality.

A great surprise is the collaboration with EastPak, which was also presented during the show. The brand’s bags are very popular among teens and young adults in France. The blend between the practical accessory and the elegant and structural side of Kris Van Assche will make these affordable bags something to look forward to in June, when they hit the stores.

The Full Collection / 37 Pics

[Images: Sybille Walter]