Targeting a younger clientele, designer Youn Chong Bak fuses the traditional Smalto man with a man more rough around the edges. Yet, still manages to maintain the ‘timelessness-luxe’ sense of appeal that we have all come to expect from the house.

In stark contrast from the Smalto man that we saw back in Fall 2008, this season a more fitted silhouette is seen. Trousers tucked into boots and loosened collars appearing from time to time, the styling can be easily described as something that would interest your modern intellectual, that secretly also has quite a daring side.

As jackets appeared traditional for the most part, at points a saddle stitch appeared on jackets in places that you would normally not find it. One of the collections many little details that overall contributed to the bigger picture. One of my personal favorites being, the braided leather scarves that flared out into a fringe at it’s bottom, usually accentuated with a bare and open collar.

Focusing largely on softness, fur can be now be found lining both hats and jackets. Whilst gloves come in lambskin and leather is thinned to give off a softened texture.

Detailing much appreciated for what would be a perfect winter.

The Full Collection / 67 Pics

My videos, snaps, and model coverage to come soon

[Images: PixelFormula]

Starting off a week of shows with a much needed pit stop into Gaspard Yurkievich, I can honestly say that I am not the least bit disappointed.

Going into the show I expected Yurkievich’s usual perfect clean cuts, an incredible crop of both top models and new faces (like new kid on the block Oliver Welton), and a refreshed outlook on what to expect out of Paris through the season.

Leaving guests already in a great mood before the show eve started, bottles of vitaminwater in every flavor under the sun awaited everyone on their seats. Something I don’t think I’ve ever seen done before, but more than gladly welcome again.

As the show started and the instrumental ending to Portishead’s ‘Machine Gun’ played in the background, it was clear that this season’s man is more powerful and quite poetic. It was almost as if the track emphasized each step taken on the runway, which seemed perfectly fitting for the collection entitled, ‘In Love With Beauty’.

Later fading into Fever Ray’s, ‘If I Had a Heart’, the mood in the air was less tense than your average Fall/Winter show. Then again, that could be largely due to the crowds pleasant interest in the bags presented as a result of Yurkievich’s collaboration with Eastpack.

More Runway Shots

Benoni Loos

Jakob Hybholt

Robbie Wadge

Adrian Bosch

Finale line-up making it’s way through the venue

Guests being quite rude and  heading out while models are still on the runway…

Satisfied Showgoers

[All Images By Homme Times]

James Smith/Models1

Thomas Penfound/D1 Management

Matthew Hitt/FM Agency

Peter Bruder/FM Agency

Danny Arter/Nevs

Johannes Linder/FM Agency

Photos: Kushintha

Please provide a source for these images as Homme Times when posting elsewhere

When you are looking for innovation matched with perfect ‘real’ styling, there is no one better to turn than Juun. J.

For Spring 2010, the Korean designer went light and worked with transparencies, turning them into sleeves and even layering them over pants. In a complete turnaround from last season, we now see heavy metal, with zips and zippers being the main focus.

If the cowboy style hats leaves you puzzled, consider it as a take from one of those movies where a dark rebel cowboy rolls into town causing chaos, yet is still as cool as can be. Channeling that same vibe into his latest collection, the transparencies doubled over linen, back in June, now become zippered wool over zippered leather, with hoods galore. Hoods came in the form of long knit sweaters transforming into something more, a hooded cardigan with cascading hem, and ribbed collar structures doubling as protective gear.

Using both shapes of wide and small, slimmer fits were contrasted with heavier tops, and mid-sections with detachable belts pieces adding even more pockets into play. While feet were for the most part gladiator sandals over wool socks, almost looking as perfectly closed trainers at first glance.

In typical Juun. J fashion, the show’s end was turned into something more than the usual when models took to the runway in coats printed with golden studs, sprinkled with real studs close by.

If your like me and wanting to get your share of this collection ASAP, for a limited time, Seven New York is taking advanced orders for the collection, now. Consider the trousers mine.

The Full Collection / 83 Pics

[Images: Catwalking & PixelFormula]

Taken Backstage at Burberry Fall 2010

Both on exclusive for Burberry in Milan, this season, Danny Arter and Sebastian Brice are begging to make a name for themselves as forces to be reckoned with.

Bearing charm just as fitting as their looks, though the models have not yet completed a full year in the industry, major powerhouses are already knocking, wanting more from the dashing Brits.

Their views of the collection & career, after the jump.

Originally from Croydon (London), Danny Arter is represented by Nevs model management. The top model agency managing the very successful careers of models such as Eddie Tucker, Isaac Crew, and Ty Ogunkoya (among others). With both classic good looks and knowledge beyond bound, just last month, Danny has graced the runways of Burberry, Miharayasuhiro, Yves Saint Laurent, Dunhill, and Lanvin. Walking James Long and JW Anderson this week alone.

Proving model stereotypes wrong with his impeccable continued writing for his school’s sports column.

Were you always interested in the fashion industry and modeling or did it simply happen by chance?

It happened by chance, I only really considered modeling when I got signed. But have really enjoyed everything I have experienced so far.

Did you expect to be walking for a big brand like Burberry?

I had hoped so. I had done a few shows at LFW this season before but wasn’t expecting to get booked direct for Burberry in Milan, but obviously jumped at the chance. It was an amazing experience.

Were you nervous walking for Burberry?

I don’t think so, everything happened far too quickly for me to realize what was going on and the significance of it until after the show had finished.

What did you think of the show?

I liked military theme of the clothing, really wearable designs. I especially liked the long, green coat which was my first look.

Also hailing from the UK, Sebastian Brice comes from Models 1, making his runway debut this season. Though his heart rests in music, Sebastian already has names the likes of Burberry, Lavin, Miharayasuhiro, and Dunhill under his belt. Astonishing, seeing as he has only two months in the industry for two months.

With boyish good looks and a winning personality, it is no surprise that Brice will soon appear in a top high street campaign and another luxury house’s campaign, following his work for Burberry Eyewear and Burberry Black Label.

Before the show, did you know of what a big impact it will have on your career?

However big or small an impact it will have, I felt very lucky to work for such a prestigious company so early on in my career. It was a really cool experience.

What did you think of the fashion industry before and how does that compare to how it really is?

The nearest I got to understand the fashion industry was watching Zoolander.

Did you ever expect to be walking for a big brand like Burberry before?

I got scouted on holiday in Amsterdam with my girlfriend, but before that, it was never something that had crossed my mind.

What did you think of the collection?

There were some very strong, cool looks in the military, aviation and not least rock ‘n’ roll vein that, being a musician myself, that really resonated with me.

Hundreds of models go to the casting, did you have any idea you would get chosen?

As a musician I’m well aware of how big a part luck can play in achieving success, but it’s also very much about networking. The competition between models is comparable to that between musicians- that’s what it’s like in these industries.

[Backstage Image: Taken by Homme Times

Runway Images: by Andrew Thomas]

Shows like the Gaspard Yurkievich Fall 2010 presentation always leave me refreshed and excited for new seasons. Reason being, with a new season we are always brought a fresh start. A start that derives from what was already there to begin with. Much like what you get with a Gaspard Yurkievich showing.

For Fall 2010, Yurkievich magnifies on his favorite techniques. Delivering his usual mix of what I often like to refer to as, ’softened structure’, new guidelines for what make up a basic piece are set.

As Portishead and Fever Ray tracks echoed throughout the venue, a mood hard to describe without using the words ‘powerful’ or ‘relaxed’ was set. with the same lightness of his Spring 2010, but with a much bolder statement, Yurkievich takes the mind on a journey into a world of lines. Readily equipping you with backpacks and necessary luggage.

Stripes, plaids, box checks, and diagonal lines; architecture made easy. Often cutting into other patterns or colors, with color blocking nearby or the main focus at times, the sterile topic of Geometry is softened into a patchwork print, showing up on standard button-ups. Suits versatile enough for both day and night, tailored with human portion in mind, yet with enough ease to debunk the whole idea of the typical men’s suit.

Delving into a world of pleats, we also standard t-shirts pinned as if ready to make a new top, coming together to make one, as pants go higher with pleats appearing from waist to below pocket.

Towards the shows end, suits gained a new dimension with stitched patches appearing on jacket tops almost as a boutonniere would appear, with a matching piece appearing on sleeve, in full effect as the last magical touch to a astonishing collection.

Sharp lines and traditional men’s dress, typically stiff and sterile, now given life and emotion.

Never in my wildest dreams would I have ever thought that I would now be need of a backpack, but there is something so clean and modern here that I love.

My coverage of the show/video to come soon, the full collection after the jump.

The Full Collection / 74 Pics

[Images: PixelFormula]

Backstage at Burberry Fall 2010 With Lasse Pedersen

You asked, he answered.

Along with being one of the nicest, most charismatic, and freshest faces out on the male model scene right now, Albert Krarup actually does know a thing or two when it comes to personal style. That being, it was no surprise that when I posted my backstage model coverage of the Burberry Prorsum Fall 2010 show, a few readers (including me) were curious to know where Krarup’s black & white striped mohair knit sweater came from.

My first thought for some reason was Prada Fall 2007, mainly this sweater, but apparently I was dead wrong.

From Albert Krarup himself:

“ The sweater is actually from H&M, so not at all as fashionably as it may look. Bought this fall by the way.”

And there you have it. Would you have ever guessed H&M? I sure didn’t.

Great buy, Albert.

Backstage at Miharayasuhiro Fall 2010

[Images By Homme Times]

Jakob Hybholt

Since their very first collection for the Gianfranco Ferré menswear label, back in Fall 2009, I really have been a huge fan of the work that Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi have been producing. Somehow, the pair always seems to find a way to continue on with the structure and clean lines that was brought about through the late Gianfranco Ferré’s background in architecture, yet still breath new life into the label. Dressing for the future, but not forgetting the past, a tactic that has yet to fail them.

Sitting in at a Gianfranco Ferré show can now officially be crossed off my list of things to do before I bite the dust.

Filled to capacity, the venue, runway set up and even the time of the show, was the same as usual. Arriving pretty much on time, I began notice that the crowd waiting for the show to start was more dapper and well put-together than the usual mixed bag you that would normally get a show.

Though it wasn’t the front row, I was more than pleased with my second row seat in the center of the runway. A position that didn’t even exist in last season’s showing.

As the show started and looks went by, I started to pick up on the fact that the lighting is a lot different from what you see in a 320 X 480 pic on GQ.com.

On the opposite end of the venue, you could frequently see guest in smiles. Purely pleased with what they were seeing.

At end, as the designers dashed from runway exit to runway entrance to take their bow, the response received was a response well deserved.

A highlight of my Fall 2010 season – an all around high point in my life.

On a Side Note – My snaps don’t exactly put me in the same category as Meisel, so bare with me. Note to self – avoid backs of heads next season.

More Runway Shots
Note: All pics belong to Homme Times, so if posting elsewhere please provide proper visible credits.

Taras Koltun

Peter Bruder

Oscar Landström

Philipp Bierbaum

Julius Beckers

Bastiaan van Gaalen

Lucas Mascarini

Matvey Lykov

Charlie France

Nicolas Ripoll

Jonas Kesseler

Taras Koltun

Vladimir Rotar

Gerhard Freidl

Taylor Fuchs

My Backstage Model Coverage to Come Soon

For the Show Review, click here

[All Images By Homme Times]

If you’ve been keeping track, we’ve played soccer with Frankie Morello, hockey with Dsquared², and now we’re going skiing with Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, at D&G.

Just as they did in Fall 2006, the pair goes back to where fall/winter fashion inevitably starts – in the snow. More whimsical than the usual sexually expressive D&G man,”Toy Boy” by Mika took to the soundtrack, with Mickey & Minnie Mouse making a guest appearance on shirt fronts and even backs. While there wasn’t any snow on the runway this time around, you were certainly made more than prepared for it. Oversized knit gloves and removable snood-like neck pieces, padded boots, plush furs, and ever shearling lined pants.

My favorite pieces came in the forms of a waxed denim coat, lined to the max. with fur, and a simple gray suit tailored to perfection, topped off with a chunky knee-grazing boot.

After experiencing one of New York’s worst blizzards, I can honestly say that, even though I’m not a fan of snow boots…I would definitely consider giving these a go.

A collection that really does speaks for itself.

The Full Collection / 60 Pics

[Images: Andrew Thomas]

Not leaving Frankie Morello designers, Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti, way out in left field to fend for themselves, Dean and Dan Caten also give into idea of…sports + menswear = something great. Last season, the duo known as Dsquared² took us camping. Taking you there and back again with ant covered shirts, denim/plaid combos, and all around outdoor campfire goodness. As you know, with the end of every Dsquared² show starts a new adventure.

So, where to this season? Answer, ice cold Canada.

Playing with the idea of hard and soft, literally, hockey’s dangerous reputation gets put on blast and somehow cleaned up. Goin big for their show openings, as per usual, this season we see Tokio Hotel’s Bill Kaulitz making his runway debut, in feathers, leather, and chains. Though, the backdrop featuring the ideal Dsquared² hockey rink was enough keep you reminded of where things were about to head.

Expanding on the fact that Halloween also just so happens to take place in the Fall, like something out of a slasher movie, models were bruised, battered, and drenched in blood. All from hockey related accidents, of course. Mimicking the idea of fresh blood onto the clothes shown, like the bloodstained in embroideries of Dior’s Spring 2006 couture collection, blood can now be found on your standard button-up. Appearing also on polo style shirts and sweaters, dripping from underneath a very Jason Voorhees style hockey mask.

Showing mainly a wide series of tougher leather looks, in all forms, from patent shorts to classic bomber jackets and padded knee pant, the collection also had a softer side. A side seen through a blazer with a lapel covered in black pailettes, embellished shimmering denim, a pailette covered coat with an attached inner canvas piece, and scarves drenched in sequins.

Makes you curious to see what the women’s show will look, doesn’t it?

Above, Fashion TV takes you backstage as models prep for the show, Nikola Jovanovic explains the make-up process, and the Caten twins talk you through the collection

On a Side Note – He may seem quite paranoid in the video (what’s a guy supposed to do when your half-naked and getting covered in what is most likely corn syrup?), wouldn’t Jacob Coupe be the perfect fit for the collection’s campaign?

The Full Collection / 36 Pics

[Images: Andrew Thomas]