With a list of clientele that includes both rockstars and movie’s most elite, for Spring 2011, Christopher Bailey taps into the fresh mind of a polished rockstar. Drawing inspiration from the future of British music and bands. Streamed live on line, just as last season, the Burberry Prorsum presentation is easily among one of the most anticipated tickets of the week.

Back in Fall 2009 and Spring 2010, we witnessed indie British rocker George Craig take to the Burberry runway, even acting as the face of the many of the house’s ad campaigns. That being said, it now comes as no surprise for creative director Christopher Bailey to now paint the picture of a rocker with the perfect day-to-day balance of comfort and class. As models took to the venue’s mirrored runway dressed in leather, studs and trenches, British youth made an assertive appearance in Milan, Italy.

Starting off the show with the signature Burberry trench newly cut, and infused with leather, featuring golden hardware, slim-fit trousers paired with leather sandals is now the way to approach your day. Having more of an attitude this season, accompanied by a biker jacket and tougher demeanor, leather is worn upon leather, as riding boots complete looks featuring motorcycle pants with cuts on thigh and knee.

As every rockstar is sure to have a soft spot somewhere inside, open weave knit shirts ranging from olive to black found themselves under rich shieldings, while a transparent button-up meets a black sleeveless biker jacket.

Towards the shows finale, raised studs, both rounded and squared, adorned classic yet modern pieces, as the sandals seen throughout most of the presentation now close up and become patent shoes.

Your new Burberry accessories for the season? Simply “nailed with silver metallic punk studs”.

Pieces from the collection are now available for order on Burberry.com, until Sunday, June 27th.

Mark Cox at Burberry Spring 2011, taken by Homme Times

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Among the first collections of Spring 2011, Costume National took a completely different direction than the one shown first at Jil Sander. Instead of bright colors it was neutral, instead of structured it was fluid, it was completely different, but still so beautiful.

The mood that Ennio Capasa brought to Costume National was one of lightness and freshness with a masculine edge. This feeling translated into a collection with many fluid suiting options that had light creases and cuffs to keep them looking sharp but they were also given a rugged feeling with some unfinished seams and hems. These suits were paired with, in my opinion, the standout pieces of the collection, transparent tops. These tops added a perfect sense of barely-there beauty to the collection.

Other great pieces included the knit tops, crisp, clean shorts, and – what looks to be the trendy items of the season – shirts and jackets done in leather.

The whole collection was done in a classically masculine neutral palette of khaki, white, and gray that proves that you don’t need to do a collection in bright colors to produce a standout show.

Backstage at Costume National Spring 2011, taken by Homme Times

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Corso Venezia, 16
20121 Milan, Italy

VIVAIO RIVA – Via Arena 7

Very Relaxed Silhouette. Very Natural styling. Very luxurious knits over plaid shirts. Boating shoes.

At the beginning of fashion week, editors and fashion crowds are always hopeful for a wonderful collection to start them off on a high note. Cue Raf Simons and his awe-inspiring Spring 2011 collection for Jil Sander shown at the Pitti Uomo 78 in Firenze, Italy.

Raf Simons commented, “This isn’t a silhouette-driven collection at all, as a matter of fact. I don’t want to compete with nature; I also don’t want to blend in. What I want is to create a tension, a certain friction or electricity, …”. Even though there is a lot of attention on the silhouettes, like any of Raf’s collections, his main message shined through. The showing was a decidedly “spring” collection with the many pops of electric color from the first group of color blocked exits to the floral printed button-downs (that seemed to replace the face prints of Spring 2010), and even on the bottoms of the shoes. There was also color on the geometric prints of some of the looks. But since you can’t live in bright colors all of the time, there were some darker offerings to get you through the night in style.

“We’re bringing people to an estate in the hills, showing outside in a tremendous garden with a view of the city below. Afterwards, there will be a dinner. We are creating an atmosphere of celebration …” said the designer – and celebration there will be, for a astonishing opening collection to the Spring 2011 season.

For video of the collection streamed live on June 17th, click here

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