Titling his latest collection, “The Boy with the Pearl Tear”, designer Khalid Al Qasimi fuses pure masculinity with a poetic refinement, creating what I deem to be one of fall’s most exquisite presentations.

As Seselie lopez sat front row in the picturesque Université Descartes, models made sure to appear bold and powerful, as muted tones and soft luxury scoop neck knits acted as a paradox to the standard ‘alpha male’ persona. Working with softer fabrics such as a virgin wool-blend, appearing in jackets and suits, Qasimi made contrast one of his major target points this season by styling wool with leather, in the form of snug leather pants and even the linings of double-breasted coats.

Continuing on with a message of high contrast, the designer kept to a strong yet relaxed silhouette, building up a pattern of relaxed trousers paired with relaxed yet tailored tops, mainly double-breasted, as form-fitting leather trousers were paired with more visually structured tops.

Displaying knitwear in both a thicker form when appearing in the form of a horizontally ribbed knit and a thinner sheer, Qasimi’s breathtaking knitwear also appeared in leather on bags. Displayed beautifully textured, yet doing anything but hindering each ensemble that one of the bags was paired with. Other accessories included skull caps ans pearl necklaces, which shockingly enough, have never looked more ravishing.

Towards the show’s close, the title of the collection became almost literal when glass pearls appeared magnificently embellished on the plackets, sleeves, collar and fronts of two separate shirts. Perfectly showcasing the designers ability to construct both hard-edge and beautiful pieces.

In a special collaboration with Homme Times, photographer Syed Munawir captures the Khalid Al Qasimi’s Fall 2010 collection. To be posted soon.

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Kevin Flamme | View Management

If you squint your eyes, you just might almost take Vikor & Rolf‘s latest man as your quintessential nerd. Though, he may bare the classic thick rimmed glasses, the Dutch duo channel more of a Clark Kent, as opposed to Steve Urkel.

Striking perfects cords with a live singer playing on a runway printed in paint splatter, the show opened with every intellectuals seemingly favorite look; knits layered upon button-ups, then topped off with micro-patterned jackets, finished with pockets squares formed by loosely tucked silk. Matching the overall silhouette of each individual ensemble with the light and carefree mood lingering about, trousers were shown relaxed, mainly cuffed, loosening up the perfectly precise image of their upper halves.

Wool being the prime fabric used throughout the collection, in both cropped pants and suits, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren also delved largely into knits, leaving plaid to be a key pattern. Appearing colored, large and small, plaid further enhanced you collegiate experience, taking to almost everything at one point or another in the presentation.

Not leaving the splatters on the ground to be a big elephant in the room, paint marks found itself on the leg of a suit, at the top of a shirt (or the bottom, depending on your outlook), and in a black patent form on t-shirt worn under a sparkling striped suit.

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Perfect if you want to look sharp in the office or cool in the alpine, Rei Kawakubo made up a showing mainly of four-piece suits; fluid pants, tailored jackets, fastened vests, and shorts. Even if you aren’t the type to wear shorts with your suits, the main pieces are still tailored and nifty enough, completed in interesting, but still wearable fabrics.

Coming in the form of head wraps and lengthy fur coats, or even trailing up the front of a sweater (making for a true contrast placket), fur was another staple of the collection.

Finishing off  the mainly darkened hue show off with pastel colored shoes, rounded like most of the shoulders seen throughout, Kawakubo keep suits traditional yet modern for the waist up, playing with proportion from the waist down. Accenting ties and the undersides of collars with fur.

If you sometimes may find Comme des Garcons to be too extreme for you, looking hard enough you will, for the most part, find something chic and wearable.

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After displaying a relaxed and refreshing Spring 2010 collection based around nudes and neutrals, designer Tillmann Lauterbach now takes on a bit more structure. Deconstructing noted basics, building them back up to form something so natural and carefree.

Setting the mood for his latest presentation by having no more than one freckled model on the runway at once, walking to the sound of instrumentals, including the ‘Requiem for a Dream’ theme song played out classically on piano, the designer showcased 27 looks simple to the naked eye, but skillfully thought out once closer. An up and coming designer, Lauterbach already proves to be a master at minimalism. Making your standard shirt into something more by adding pleats, then pairing it under a jacket with a horizontal cut running across the chest, the show appeared to be styled with an artist in mind. Complete with jackets and trousers alike, printed in paint marks. The deconstruction motif also took to the collection’s bags, made to look as if it had been through a quite a few uses, perfectly injecting the show with the feel of the results of what you would get from wearing your favorite pieces time and time again.

Hopping aboard the tucking train, boots were also tucked into boots, much as the running trend this season. Though, the boots now holding your pants when not cropped or cuffed, now laces up to tie in the back. Putting a fresh twist on the classic leather shoe.

With a fresh ideas projected into refreshing and realistic designs, I have a strong feeling that Tillmann Lauterbach is someone to keep an eye on.

In a special collaboration with Homme Times, photographer Syed Munawir captures the Lauterbach’s Fall 2010 collection. To be posted soon.

The Full Collection / 97 Pics
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