Aram Gevorgyan | VNY Model Management

Once again aiming their lens in the Givenchy direction, photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott shoot the house’s Fall 2010 advertising campaign.

In a similar group set up as seen in last season’s campaign, with the Givenchy name now branded in white lace, a fresh crop of faces sprinkled with regulars, Simon Nessman and Mariacarla Boscono, now carry the torch of representing Tisci’s fall turn to extreme delicacy and simplicity.

Leaving us without print this season, the men all mesh together wearing fitted fleece wool trousers and shirts that feature pleated fronts, in both semi-transparent and opaque cottons.

As simple as it may seem, the erotic and homosexual undertones leave me speechless. Thus far the best campaign of the season.

[Images: WWD]

Simply describing her latest collection for Hermès as ‘essential pieces tailored in very beautiful fabrics’, designer Véronique Nichanian ruffs up the house’s image a bit, injecting beautifully tailored pieces with a fresh breath of edge.

Always known to produce among one of the season’s most perfectly precise and tailored collections with a typically relaxed fit, Nichanian expands her idea of ‘a chic man who goes into a seedy, slummy area’, transforming the concept into 47 looks in warm muted tones with pops of vibrant hues.

On a perfect crop of fresh faces, the almost instinctual method of layering for warmth takes center stage. A huge trend this season, to make it appear as sweaters were paired one over the other, mutant tops were seen. For example, on sweaters you will now come to find a wider heavy ribbed knit or cashmere turtleneck collar at top, though as you look lower, you will encounter a deep-V continuing on in contrast cashmere and un-ribbed knit.

Though it played an almost vital roll in the collection, layering was kept light and effortless by the overall vibe that slightly dipped into rocker territory with trousers featuring belts with a thick chain, While scarves gained fringed edges.

The house’s noted bags are this season mixed with leather and suede, much like the contrast suits and perfectly cut jackets that were seen when luxurious silk/cashmere blends weren’t seen.

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A year ago at Jil Sander, we witnessed Raf Simons‘ declaration of love for nipped in waists and curve-creating pieces. Since then, Raf has produced free-flowing coats and snake prints on billowing transparent tops.

Going back into shapeshifting mode, the designer best known for giving a deeper meaning to basics, now makes magic with Velcro. Usually opening up most of his presentations with a strong suit or bold coated look, a shirt with Velcro acting as darts slimmed the overall silhouette of your standard button-up and tie ensemble, marking the show’s start. You may have been questioning how jackets were to function earlier at Jil Sander, but there is no mystery behind the snap closures that now find themselves on both plaid suits and more youthful coats, all of which appearing double-breasted.

While the use of Velcro this season helps shave down some extra time buttoning up, like a mix of past meets present, trench coats were far from classic. Like modern kilts or fashionable aprons, trenches were sectioned-off and combined with both buttons and Velcro, with the fabric joining material now aiding in waist-nipping, creating detachable peplums.

Towards the end of the collection, longer ribbed knits and color-blocked sweaters put a quirky twist on tradition. Usually peeking out from under coats and jackets that also kept with the shows wide use of snap closures and Velcro.

The backs of the each individual look were just as interesting as the front, featuring pleats formed by snaps and large strips of Velcro.

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After two seasons showing at her Saint Germain boutique, Sonia Rykiel returned to her warehouse in the 13e with a vengeance.

The models took their turn on the catwalk with Sonia’s signature knits, chunky platforms affixed with fur, safety pins with pearls, and large poofs to top off their glowing bodies. The knits and the rest of the collection were mostly in muted colors aside from a few pops of red, blue, and even rainbow patterns; a good marketing strategy seeing as how the pieces looked like higher end versions of her H&M collection. The show was packed with the chic French sensibility that Sonia has mastered throughout the years.

As we all know it wouldn’t be a Sonia Rykiel show with out a joyous finale. This time around the finale was a dizzying array of feathered dresses and coats. This was certainly a can’t miss show of the season.

Homme Times would like to thank our own Andrea for capturing the wonderful collection for the site.

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