In a new season marking fresh starts, designer Franck Boclet takes his final bow at Emanuel Ungaro, sending the Ungaro man on a renewed journey.

Opting out of displaying his latest collection in the always eye-catching pink runway form, seen in collections past; black alongside rich browns becomes this season’s main color, with structure and comfort in mind. Slightly tougher than what we are used to seeing at Ungaro, pants once again takes to the inside of boots, high military-style boots.

Taking a different route to approaching the trend spotted on runways from Milan to Paris, Boclet introduces us to a new pant readily awaiting to be tucked. Featuring a more roomier fit than trousers presented in previous seasons, the standard black pant gains perfectly-crafted pleats, made for both sophistication and comfort. An idea continued on with edgier shows of classic tailored wool coats now featuring slightly frayed edges.

As pleating work took to trousers, the technique also appeared on jackets and bombers, while tops are mainly cropped to play with a new sense of proportion.

With Franck Boclet leaving to pursue his own line, I am sure that the designer will once again leave us wowed, and legacy behind the Emanuel Ungaro name will continue on beautifully.

The Full Collection / 21 Pics
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Mark Ronson is at it again. On Wendsday, the musician amoung many others celebrated the second stop in a four city tour for the musician’s collaboration with Gucci on a limited edition concept flash sneaker store.

If you have been a longtime follower of the site, you will know that Mark Ronson has been on my radar, and I like to pay close attention to what he wears. For some time now, we have seen the DJ making bold steps in Gucci pieces, most of which coming from the glam rock inspired Fall 2009 collection. As anticipation built for the launch of Wednesday’s Icon-Temporary launch, I was eagerly waiting to see if Mark would do what seems to be impossible for him, and let go of Fall 2009 and step into Spring 2010.

Arriving to the opening of the flash store in a white cotton honey comb half net lined palma jacket with matching pants, Ronson certainly did not let me down, as the suit was one of the statement making opening looks to the Gucci Spring 2010 collection.

As most of you might now, Mark has a knack for mixing and matching pieces, instead of wearing the complete runway look. That being, the Dj went back to the house’s Fall 2009 show and opted to replace the runway’s grey helikite printed muslin skinny shirt with a black and white polka dot button-up that featured a contrast collar. Perfectly matching his very own self-designed sneakers.

The Night’s Looks
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In a season where cropped trousers and pants tucked into boots ruled runways from Ann Demeulemeester to Gucci, at Dunhill, Kim Jones gives us something a little different. While you are still left tucking, in a more refined take on the trend that was mostly used in shows to make for a laid back target at modern youth, here we have perfectly tailored pants finding their way into socks.

For Spring 2010, trousers moved free, with almost every pair cuffed at the bottom. A few months later, pant bottoms and wool suits welcome the restraint of a sock and a boot. As the show opened with Jeremy Young taking to the runway with book in hand, wearing a jacket crested jacket complete with pocket-square and all, the mood was set for the display of a cultured man that spends most of his time on the move, yet still at ease. While last season’s cuffs were left behind on pants, they turn up now on the rolled-up sleeves of wool sweaters pulling out from under coats and suits jackets, copying the effect of the socks on pants.

Producing some of the years most impressive accessories so far, next fall’s soon be hits come in the form of boxy leather bags, utility belts, and travel cases with gold finishing. The case held by Benoni Loos being something to kill a million men for.

Transforming the the ulitraian man of the day into dapper and traditional British gentleman for night, Jones closed out the show with pieces in rich blues, with no socks in clear sight, and a crest blending into jacket for a less than blunt look. Topping off the closing looks with royal patent shoes, creating a perfect final touch.

The Full Collection / 30 Pics
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The Spring 2010 issue of AnOther Man showcases a good line up of editorials, so I thought I’d share another. In an edgy spread titled ‘Automation’ the magazine explores the robotic qualities of man.

This editorial features Alex Bennett and is shot by Phil Hale. The great photography illustrates the stellar styling by Alister Mackie. And while it seems that the clothing might be taking a backseat to the custom art pieces created by Phil Hale, I am really enjoying it. The draped Givenchy tank top is one of my favorites.

All in all I love the black and white with the pop of red, but for a Spring editorial it is quite dark. I would love to see a good technicolor editorial soon.

The Editorial / Click for Full View
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Described as being ‘the ultimate basic’, Kris Van Assche focuses on the central pieces of menswear, adding new interest to a major staple in the Dior Homme archives. In a collection dubbed ‘Coal’, the standard black suit takes on a fresh start, taken to with an approach of comfort and lightness. Comfort being the key term.

Deconstructing and re-building upon elements that have built the Dior Homme name, in a collection streamed live online, Kris Van Assche delves into the past, but looks towards the future. Displaying the under-workings of jackets, vest like tops and full-on ‘extra’ jacket fronts were stitched over classic jackets to make one solid piece. At one point, a fully complete jacket with two contrasting sides, one side being a lapel-less leather, was given and extra layer on it’s left side, re-inventing the traditional suit. The idea of contrast also found it’s way onto ties, as ties were shown in black with white lining the sides.

Shape being another force behind the collection, the funnel collars that we saw in 2009 are back in action. This time softer, when collars were not smaller that your standard bulky collar or rounded and in leather, collars were beautifully draped around the neck, as opposed the the more structured versions seen last fall.

Coats appeared in cashmere, cutting off right at the same length as trousers, billowing easily, stripping away the stigma of heaviness attached to the coats that always seem to provide much needed warmth in winter.

Cropped trousers took to the legs of every model, ranging from classically tailored to a more modern and demure drop-crotch. Perfectly displaying new boots adorned with straps and classic laces.

While it may look simple at first glance, the quality and the detail work truly makes for something special.

The Full Collection / 45 Pics
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