In the newest issue of VMan, which dropped last night, Hedi Slimane photographs the coolest up-and-comers on the Danish scene.
The issue’s focus is all about Scandinavian’s so the editorial makes perfect sense. I must say that it is my favorite editorial out of the issue, even if it isn’t including a model. Two of them have been featured in a previous Hedi Slimane video, however. Oscar Nilsson, ballet dancer, and Mathias Sarsgaard, musician, were featured in this video.
I want to give a shout out to the stylist, Clare Richardson. All of the men have cool, chic details. One has a crown made of cardboard, and another has a breast plate that is worn upside down from Katie Eary’s Spring 2010 collection. Very cool.
In the Spring 2010 issue of the inventive British magazine, AnOther Man, David Hughes shoots a beautiful editorial with accessory shots that pop and clothing shots that stun.
Oskar Landstrom looks sleek styled by Stevie Westgarth. His black and white photos make the high-voltage shots stand out even more. The synopsis at the beginning of the spread says it all; “Duality. Saturation and tone. Energy and poise. Fantasy and form.” The idea of duality comes through right away.
Life would be quite dismal without variation, a message very well conveyed in this editorial.
Going softer for Fall 2010, like day and night, Ann Demeulemeester transforms her shirtless Spring 2010 fighters back into refined rockers. A running concept with Ann since the beginning.
Breaking down most of Demeulemeester’s works, you will come to find that her spring collections are typically more hard-edge, while fall will always leaves you wrapped in warmth, with the same attitude that we have always come to expect. Almost like, a fight in spring and reconciliation in fall. In a Color palette similar to that of Fall 2009, the Belgian designer raises waists, typing them off with leather belts that featured leather tassels, braiding, and other little trinkets.
Though, it’s not exactly the drop-crotch that seemed to take over in 2009, Demeulemeester’s new pant is roomier towards the top and more slim-fit at the bottom. Paired off with a combat boot that comes in an array of styles, from those that tie and zip at the side to the standard lace-up.
The collection was low on prints, but this season’s key pattern is a stripe. A stripe that revamped classic suits, making them more modern and something that would even not make you come off as up tight if you were to were it out with friends on the randomest of nights.
But, if you were to make an investment in something unexpected, you should now get yourself a cape and something the makes for a build up around your neck. While it was feathers at the show’s close, furs and scarves also did the job, as capes were made casual and cool once more.
In the Spring/Summer issue of Arena Homme +, Willy Vanderperre takes his camera and focuses it in on Ricardo Tisci’s latest model favorites, Manuel Ramos and Eduardo Calero.
The editorial features these stunning models who were plucked from obscurity and placed under Tisci’s wing at Givenchy. The models look flawless styled in a mix of pieces from Givenchy Spring 2010 and Fall 2010 by Panos Yiapanis. The spread features one of my all-time favorite Givenchy accessories, the thorn necklace, so I applaud Panos on a job well done.
The interview, by Arena Homme + E-I-C Jo-Ann Furniss, highlights how Tisci attained the role of creative director when he was just 30 (five years ago), and received the job of menswear designer in 2008 and has become a completely successful menswear designer in just 4 collections. It also states why Ricardo is interested in casting the models himself, he says ‘…I still spend a lot of time doing this – because the boys that I wanted had been excluded from the industry. Now it’s beginning to change.’
At the moment, Ricardo is most interested the mixture of reality mixed with Neo-Classical, and we just love to see him run wild with it.
This season at Kenzo, Antonio Marras celebrates the house’s 40 years of existence with a turn to French filmmaker Jacques Tati for inspiration. With Tati’s character Monsieur Hulot in mind, Marras leads us through the 1950s and ’60s, creating a man always on the go.
Layering sweaters and cardigans over button-up shirts, topped off with coats in everything from plaids to a metallic houndstooth that even showed up on pants towards the end of the show, this season’s Kenzo man is classically weather immune. While no two snowflakes are ever alike, here we have coats being the unique staple of the show. From long, boxy, and covered in checks to short, fitted, with contrast sleeves in animal print – if you have a special preference for a coat, Marras has you now covered. A concept which also carried into pants, as Marras showed both cuffed waxed denim and more timeless pairs.
While most of the collection largely played into a little more mature silhouette and styling, youthful hints were added through chunky shoes perfectly coordinating with what they were paired with up above, as pants were tucked into boots again, contributing to the season’s running trend.
My favorite touch, that may have been a coincidence, was the black and white checkered floor that was reflected on the sunglasses that were worn from time to time. Creating for a cool affect that sadly won’t be printed onto the sunglasses. Though, the ombré effects on the sometimes patterned glasses themselves will certainly make up for that.
It’s no wonder why this was a season favorite for model Peter Bruder.
At the collection’s end, models too the street, recreating the traffic jam as it played out in Jacques Tati’s 1971 film ‘Traffic’. Retro cars and all.
Now, you might be wondering if Bottega Veneta’s edged-out ’50s man hangs around in the same social circles as the new Kenzo man…
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