A year ago at Jil Sander, we witnessed Raf Simons‘ declaration of love for nipped in waists and curve-creating pieces. Since then, Raf has produced free-flowing coats and snake prints on billowing transparent tops.

Going back into shapeshifting mode, the designer best known for giving a deeper meaning to basics, now makes magic with Velcro. Usually opening up most of his presentations with a strong suit or bold coated look, a shirt with Velcro acting as darts slimmed the overall silhouette of your standard button-up and tie ensemble, marking the show’s start. You may have been questioning how jackets were to function earlier at Jil Sander, but there is no mystery behind the snap closures that now find themselves on both plaid suits and more youthful coats, all of which appearing double-breasted.

While the use of Velcro this season helps shave down some extra time buttoning up, like a mix of past meets present, trench coats were far from classic. Like modern kilts or fashionable aprons, trenches were sectioned-off and combined with both buttons and Velcro, with the fabric joining material now aiding in waist-nipping, creating detachable peplums.

Towards the end of the collection, longer ribbed knits and color-blocked sweaters put a quirky twist on tradition. Usually peeking out from under coats and jackets that also kept with the shows wide use of snap closures and Velcro.

The backs of the each individual look were just as interesting as the front, featuring pleats formed by snaps and large strips of Velcro.

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After two seasons showing at her Saint Germain boutique, Sonia Rykiel returned to her warehouse in the 13e with a vengeance.

The models took their turn on the catwalk with Sonia’s signature knits, chunky platforms affixed with fur, safety pins with pearls, and large poofs to top off their glowing bodies. The knits and the rest of the collection were mostly in muted colors aside from a few pops of red, blue, and even rainbow patterns; a good marketing strategy seeing as how the pieces looked like higher end versions of her H&M collection. The show was packed with the chic French sensibility that Sonia has mastered throughout the years.

As we all know it wouldn’t be a Sonia Rykiel show with out a joyous finale. This time around the finale was a dizzying array of feathered dresses and coats. This was certainly a can’t miss show of the season.

Homme Times would like to thank our own Andrea for capturing the wonderful collection for the site.

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In a new season marking fresh starts, designer Franck Boclet takes his final bow at Emanuel Ungaro, sending the Ungaro man on a renewed journey.

Opting out of displaying his latest collection in the always eye-catching pink runway form, seen in collections past; black alongside rich browns becomes this season’s main color, with structure and comfort in mind. Slightly tougher than what we are used to seeing at Ungaro, pants once again takes to the inside of boots, high military-style boots.

Taking a different route to approaching the trend spotted on runways from Milan to Paris, Boclet introduces us to a new pant readily awaiting to be tucked. Featuring a more roomier fit than trousers presented in previous seasons, the standard black pant gains perfectly-crafted pleats, made for both sophistication and comfort. An idea continued on with edgier shows of classic tailored wool coats now featuring slightly frayed edges.

As pleating work took to trousers, the technique also appeared on jackets and bombers, while tops are mainly cropped to play with a new sense of proportion.

With Franck Boclet leaving to pursue his own line, I am sure that the designer will once again leave us wowed, and legacy behind the Emanuel Ungaro name will continue on beautifully.

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Mark Ronson is at it again. On Wendsday, the musician amoung many others celebrated the second stop in a four city tour for the musician’s collaboration with Gucci on a limited edition concept flash sneaker store.

If you have been a longtime follower of the site, you will know that Mark Ronson has been on my radar, and I like to pay close attention to what he wears. For some time now, we have seen the DJ making bold steps in Gucci pieces, most of which coming from the glam rock inspired Fall 2009 collection. As anticipation built for the launch of Wednesday’s Icon-Temporary launch, I was eagerly waiting to see if Mark would do what seems to be impossible for him, and let go of Fall 2009 and step into Spring 2010.

Arriving to the opening of the flash store in a white cotton honey comb half net lined palma jacket with matching pants, Ronson certainly did not let me down, as the suit was one of the statement making opening looks to the Gucci Spring 2010 collection.

As most of you might now, Mark has a knack for mixing and matching pieces, instead of wearing the complete runway look. That being, the Dj went back to the house’s Fall 2009 show and opted to replace the runway’s grey helikite printed muslin skinny shirt with a black and white polka dot button-up that featured a contrast collar. Perfectly matching his very own self-designed sneakers.

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In a season where cropped trousers and pants tucked into boots ruled runways from Ann Demeulemeester to Gucci, at Dunhill, Kim Jones gives us something a little different. While you are still left tucking, in a more refined take on the trend that was mostly used in shows to make for a laid back target at modern youth, here we have perfectly tailored pants finding their way into socks.

For Spring 2010, trousers moved free, with almost every pair cuffed at the bottom. A few months later, pant bottoms and wool suits welcome the restraint of a sock and a boot. As the show opened with Jeremy Young taking to the runway with book in hand, wearing a jacket crested jacket complete with pocket-square and all, the mood was set for the display of a cultured man that spends most of his time on the move, yet still at ease. While last season’s cuffs were left behind on pants, they turn up now on the rolled-up sleeves of wool sweaters pulling out from under coats and suits jackets, copying the effect of the socks on pants.

Producing some of the years most impressive accessories so far, next fall’s soon be hits come in the form of boxy leather bags, utility belts, and travel cases with gold finishing. The case held by Benoni Loos being something to kill a million men for.

Transforming the the ulitraian man of the day into dapper and traditional British gentleman for night, Jones closed out the show with pieces in rich blues, with no socks in clear sight, and a crest blending into jacket for a less than blunt look. Topping off the closing looks with royal patent shoes, creating a perfect final touch.

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