Raf Simons’ gothic army of models, with hair greased up and slicked down, answered the call of the wild for the Spring 2012 Jil Sander presentation in Milan. As expected, the much anticipated collection did not disappoint.

Simons still seems to be enjoying the color that he’s been injecting into his collections these past few seasons, he even came out for his bow after the show in a green snakeskin t-shirt. This time around it was more controlled, however. Instead of fully color blocked looks the “pop” was toned down and used mainly in the accessories and various items of clothing – always paired with a black or blue anchor – in different prints. These prints included multicolor snake skins, a swirling pattern, and an almost painterly effect was achieved on the open weave knit sweaters. The looks were both sharp, yet sporty. The drawstring snakeskin bags are a perfect example of this Gemini-like quality the collection holds. Star pieces of the show were the transparent outerwear, the stitched leather, and of course those snakeskin pouches that will end up on every respectable man on the go.

Some may say that Simons is moving further and further away from Jil Sander’s heritage, but if you really look at the collection you’ll find an abundance of wearable, minimalist pieces.  Obviously Simons isn’t trying to stay completely true to the brand‘s heritage, rather, he is constantly reinventing and updating the classic Jil Sander look.

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As creepers continue to trickle throughout fashion at the moment, Ennio Capasa journeys to the pivotal point of the shoe’s success; the 1950s.
Leaving behind the cliché pompadour, instead opting for more of a strategic disheveled look, the Costume National designer injects his experimental approach to clothing into classic 50s’ fits and modern billows.

Always one to turn to when it comes to chic and easy pieces that actually have a sense of design quality to them, Capasa starts the collection off with subtle contrasts. Deeps blues meet lighter check patterned blues, woven leather befriends smoothed leather and loosely fit cropped tops are paired with slightly over-sized trousers.

Offering both ends of the silhouette spectrum, which was noticeably a very common occurrence during the 1950s, the designer finds a way to bring both day wear and formal wear into the same causal boat, using more causal fabrics and unpredictable cuts.

Surly the focal point of the collection, Capasa can now add a series of interesting vintage style brothel creepers to his ever growing archive of “boss” accessories. The black woven-top pairs, my personal favorite.

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Like being invited to a relaxing luncheon in the Italian countryside, guests at the Roberto Cavalli Spring 2012 presentation were seated out in a garden as models made there way out of a large vine-covered villa, wearing casual yet elegant outfits. The day’s looks were pairings of different colored vests, shirts and pants, along with leather shoes. These were mostly royal blue, beige, white and red. Even bolder were the color-blocked suits in yellow, royal blue (a must this season), bright pink and as Francisco Lachowski wore, white.

Details could be found in casual coats patched with either gray or different tones of leather, belts and ties, big over night bags and pulled up sleeves.

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Among one of the first shows to officially kick off Spring 2012 fashion week, Ermenegildo Zegna presents a breath of fresh air that propels us forward into a palette of rich and buttery hues, marking the end to Spring 2011′s on-going technicolor trend.

Translating muted shades of green and brown into a luxurious and easy-going collection, perfectly apt for a relaxed spring and summer, the new wardrobe of this seasons Zegna man consists of well-crafted pieces such as slim-cut suits, stone-like tops and bags in contrasting colors.

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Unveiling his autumn/winter collection last week at the Palais de Tokyo, one of Paris’ modern art museums, Kris Van Assche displays a series of looks that create a sense of comfort and coziness. A collection of long, thick coats paired with loose black pants and small boots draped the models. Channeling that style into a mix of elegantly tailored pieces, such as classic suits in relaxed fits and contrast wool collars, elegance is grounded in reality.

A great surprise is the collaboration with EastPak, which was also presented during the show. The brand’s bags are very popular among teens and young adults in France. The blend between the practical accessory and the elegant and structural side of Kris Van Assche will make these affordable bags something to look forward to in June, when they hit the stores.

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