In the Spring/Summer issue of Arena Homme +, Willy Vanderperre takes his camera and focuses it in on Ricardo Tisci’s latest model favorites, Manuel Ramos and Eduardo Calero.

The editorial features these stunning models who were plucked from obscurity and placed under Tisci’s wing at Givenchy. The models look flawless styled in a mix of pieces from Givenchy Spring 2010 and Fall 2010 by Panos Yiapanis. The spread features one of my all-time favorite Givenchy accessories, the thorn necklace, so I applaud Panos on a job well done.

The interview, by Arena Homme + E-I-C Jo-Ann Furniss, highlights how Tisci attained the role of creative director when he was just 30 (five years ago), and received the job of menswear designer in 2008 and has become a completely successful menswear designer in just 4 collections. It also states why Ricardo is interested in casting the models himself, he says ‘…I still spend a lot of time doing this – because the boys that I wanted had been excluded from the industry. Now it’s beginning to change.’

At the moment, Ricardo is most interested the mixture of reality mixed with Neo-Classical, and we just love to see him run wild with it.

The Editorial / Click for Full View
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This season at Kenzo, Antonio Marras celebrates the house’s 40 years of existence with a turn to French filmmaker Jacques Tati for inspiration. With Tati’s character Monsieur Hulot in mind, Marras leads us through the 1950s and ’60s, creating a man always on the go.

Layering sweaters and cardigans over button-up shirts, topped off with coats in everything from plaids to a metallic houndstooth that even showed up on pants towards the end of the show, this season’s Kenzo man is classically weather immune. While no two snowflakes are ever alike, here we have coats being the unique staple of the show. From long, boxy, and covered in checks to short, fitted, with contrast sleeves in animal print – if you have a special preference for a coat, Marras has you now covered. A concept which also carried into pants, as Marras showed both cuffed waxed denim and more timeless pairs.

While most of the collection largely played into a little more mature silhouette and styling, youthful hints were added through chunky shoes perfectly coordinating with what they were paired with up above, as pants were tucked into boots again, contributing to the season’s running trend.

My favorite touch, that may have been a coincidence, was the black and white checkered floor that was reflected on the sunglasses that were worn from time to time. Creating for a cool affect that sadly won’t be printed onto the sunglasses. Though, the ombré effects on the sometimes patterned glasses themselves will certainly make up for that.

It’s no wonder why this was a season favorite for model Peter Bruder.

At the collection’s end, models too the street, recreating the traffic jam as it played out in Jacques Tati’s 1971 film ‘Traffic’. Retro cars and all.

Now, you might be wondering if Bottega Veneta’s edged-out ’50s man hangs around in the same social circles as the new Kenzo man…

The Full Collection / 44 Pics
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On Wednesday’s series finale of ABC’s Ugly Betty, things sadly came to a close. With Betty moving off to London to pursue her true passion, back at Mode, edges are left frayed with almost everyone coming to a full realization of the things that have gone on, and moving forward from there.

Fresh off last week’s second to last episode where Marc (Michael Urie) was spotted in a face-print Jil Sander Spring 2010 cardigan, we now see Wilhelmina Slater’s personal assistant go for an Alexander McQueen Spring 2010 glass printed waistcoat. Still in the blue family, as what he last wore under the Jil Sander cardigan, but more of a standout piece.

Available online at Ssense for $685, the vest features one of McQueen’s famous mirrored prints, this one being marbled glass on front, with a heavenly monochromatic portrait on back.

Though, Marc wasn’t styled with the shirt that the look was paired with back in June, it was still nice to see McQueen hitting major airwaves even after his tragic death.

[Runway Images: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen]

Adrian Bosch | Ford Models
Backstage at Gianfranco Ferré Fall 2010

Like magic, John Galliano takes you on a ride that starts off with strong military influences like the Dior Pre-Fall 2010 collection, leading into full-on British regalness and eccentricity, stopping off in with a less than traditional take on traditional Asia. All whilst tying most of everything back to Sherlock Holmes, presented on a runway lined with industrial lights featuring a giant magnifying glass in the backdrop, which models at times stopped and posed behind before walking onto the runway faster than ever before. Has John Galliano ever left you bored? Chances are, no.

As per usual, the show was divided into sections. The first segment displayed a very contemporary mix of undercover get-ups that would please any undercover detective with a knack for see-through plastics, drop-crotch trousers, PVC materials, and strong war general-like tailoring. Touched up with heavy footwear and questioning eyebrows.

Journeying back to the time when he was 19 years old I working on Savile Row for his next segment, Galliano focused on more traditional styles, top hat and umbrella-for-cane included, kinked up with corset work that also found it’s way onto the collection’s usual display of the designer’s underwear line. Paying homage to British eccentric Bunny Rogers.

Plucking you from London and dropping you in Asia, Galliano’s third segment was inspired by kung-fu. With the venue’s lights turning to red, cuts and tailoring become more loose and casual, as floral prints appear on billowing trousers, scarves, and on a traditional Asian inspired robe.

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Above, the opening track to the show and the mood setter for the collection’s first segment.

The Full Collection / 40 Pics
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