Gaining a larger following with each season that goes by, Japanese designer Tatsuro Horikawa proves that he can still manage to maintain the mystery that seems to always draw one back to the Julius brand. Transporting us to an almost paradoxical world where skin is in for fall, in a collection dubbed ‘goth_ik;’, Julius takes us on a venture through goth subculture once more.

With models sporting hairstyles that can almost be described as ‘reverse mullets’, longer towards the front…shorter in the back, a sense of drama and power was created with the flowing movements of hair, straps, and the billowing fabric made heavy to perfectly remind everyone of what season it is. Displaying a color Platte very similar to that of his Fall 2009 collection, yet clearly in stark contrast of his light and effortlessly draped works of Spring 2010, leathers are this season treated to give of a look that reads, ‘worn after many uses’.

Continuing on with a large series of looks in distressed and slightly worn leather with contrasting cuts, a really stand out piece that I would truly see translated off of the runway was show’s tenth look. Consisting of a coat that featured a strap closed around on the front, the piece instantly took my mind to the idea of restraints, bondage wear, and even the concept of fashion forward straitjacket .

Though highly hard-edge, the delicacy and thought put into everything of the designer’s work can be spotted from miles away. Thus leaving Tatsuro Horikawa and Julius as one of my favorites of the moment.

The Full Collection / 33 Pics
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Back in January, the Gucci Fall 2010 show was once of my most coveted of the season. Following her turn to glam rock in Fall ’08, to her her clean and refreshing Spring 2010 showing, Frida Gianini is clearly on a roll and I would be lying if I say I’m not a fan.

While designers like John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier frequently like to tie in theatrics and heavy make-up into their presentations, you can always be certain to count on Gucci for a freshly washed face, lightly touched up to achieve an all around natural look.

That being, when I ran into d-management’s Matthew Hitt after the show, it was nice to see that he was not caked in make-up.

While everyone was in a rush and a few models stuck around, some waiting for others, chatting it up outside, and others smoking, Matthew was pretty chill. Being a fan of his street style, I certainly wasn’t disappointed to see that the slightly cold weather didn’t leave him compromised, as he stuck to a basic black zip bomber, plaid scarf, black skinnies, and knit shirt over a white tee.

Milan, Matthew, and Gucci – a days work done right.
(Yes, that is George Barnett in the background of the the first shot)

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Seated at one of the runway’s many corners, a position that earned me a stare down with Jonas Kesseler and quite a few other notable faces, I could not have dreamt of a better seat. Though it was not too late at night, yet late enough for it too be dark out, the venue was perfectly lit, with light fixtures hitting the seemingly packed venue in all the right places.

As day one of Paris Fashion Week was already in full swing and the collections seen throughout the day left everyone in full anticipation, showgoers sat jotting notes, while others prepped their cameras waiting for what for what designer Youn Chong Bak had in store this season for Smalto.

With a very relaxed yet enticing track playing in the background, the show opened with Nils Butler commanding full attention in contrast stitch trousers, with a basic white v-neck under a noted scarf and hooded jacket. Then, as Mathias Lauridsen slide by with his trousers tucked into his boots, making for the finishing touch to a perfectly styled ensemble, it was clear from the beginning that things were heading in a younger direction. Though, luxury was not at all compromised.

Walking at pretty steady pace, unlike the almost running models at Versace, it was the perfect opportunity to take in the little details that Youn Chong Bak had worked into the collection. From the movements of the pants to overall feeling in the air as the looks passed by, the mood was genuine and it was clear to tell from start too finish that this collection is sure to be a certain hit once in shop.

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With a runway centered around a squared ring with corseted women going at it in it’s middle, the theme for Jean Paul Gaultier this season was considerably easier to debunk, comparing to the denim corsets that took a while to digest in back in Spring 2010. Weaving the tail of a bruised and battered fighter that lives his life in pleated shorts, chunky knits, and pailette covered pieces, the gender bending was keep at a low (by JPG standard), with pure masculinity at a high.

Joking backstage that scratches and bruises were the result of a ‘savage casting’, instead of displaying a parade of Gaultier regulars like Simon Nessman or Paul Boche, the designer instead turned real athletes and boxers into models for the day.

Opening the show with more casual day looks, the norm for a boxer, there was a large focus on Gaultier’s leather work. Leathers were both ribbed like the motorcycle jeans that currently sweep most of fashion right now or resembled the the detailing for on shirts that accompanied them, coming in colors ranging from basic black to a more pea green. Often paired with a boxing glove or Givenchy-style bandage wraps to match.

Though the silhouettes were largely relaxed, the quality was still the same as with any other JPG collection. Coats ,for the most part, were kept a little bit longer to mimic boxing robes, while pants were surprisingly a little more snug in both suits and sweatpants…or in one case…a double-breasted suit made out of your typical sweater fabric.

My favorite look of the collection came in the form of a well-tailored almost shrunken tuxedo that featured slightly transparent trousers, under a cummerbund belt similar to the one’s seen in the Dior Homme Spring 2007 collection.

If Dsquared²’s demon hockey players and Jean Paul Gaultier’s brain bashing boxers were to get into a fight, who do you think would win?

The Full Collection / 41 Pics
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Back in October, when Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista showcased a Spring 2010 collection playing with the lighting bolt detailing and fine intricate draping of his Fall 2009 Couture collection, I instantly fell in love. So much so that you can easily say that his Fall 2010 showing was one of my most anticipated of the season.

Naming his most recent collection, “The Pioneers“, Oliveira drew most of his inspiration from the likes of former French skier French Alpine skier Émile Allais, arctic explorer Frank Wild amoung other vast arctictracts, polar mammals of all types of fur, and even deserted Moroccan landscapes.

Opening the show with looks that I like to refer to as being ‘fresh for flight’ (in reference to Amelia Earhart), slender bottoms and bulkier yet fitted tops took center stage, in darker tones of blue with black not to far. Transforming vintage-style looks of the past into the likes of what today’s woman desire most. Details of goggles and leather closures were seen on chich black coats, deriving from the little details that can be picked up photos of from the distant past era of exploration.

With polar influence also playing a large part of the presentation, each look was completed with fringe boots, with layers of fringe cut in contrast directions. Making for the perfect movement when the models floated past.

Moving into more color-blocked pieces for the collection’s great close, as I would like to consider Baptista as being really up there in terms of being a master at color blocking, we saw lines cut almost like cracked ice inserted with a shimmering black sections, featuring colors in a variety of shaves from square to V.

I can honestly say that I wasn’t a fan of knee grazing boots last fall, but the fringed black pairs seen in the show have more than captured my heart.

The Full Collection / 67 Pics
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