Opening the show with a short and slightly erotic black-and-white film, almost reminiscent of what Andy Warhol’s 1963 “Blow Job” would like if it were filmed today, Stefano Pilati takes the YSL man on a cinematic journey. Watering down the number of looks shown, from 37to a bold a powerful 23. All of which reflecting the words written and read by Stephanie Cohenm, later shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.

Darken backdrop, even darker color selection, slight pops of color – you would think that you somehow found yourself back at Dior Homme Fall 2008. Though the fine leathers, borderline-boxy shapes, and over all attitude of the man may leave you thinking otherwise. Focusing more on black and grey this season, Stefano Pilati gives the Spring 2009 man a lesson in film noir. Giving the axe to the drop-crotch thermal pants of the past and introducing a new alternative.

The Full Collection / 23 Pics
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When Miuccia Prada attaches her name to something, expect it to be catastrophic and unpredictable. Which might explain why the noted designer staged her Fall 2009 men’s presentation days before it’s initial date. Lustrous leathers, deep blacks, and metal studs; the new Prada man has one thing in mind – “Survival”.

As I predicted days before Men’s Fall 2009 fashion week started, the runways are now dominated by black. As the show opened in a dark and mysterious carpeted pit, the first few looks consisted of nothing but black. Crisp and exquisitely tailored suits, wide necked tops, and pants slightly snug.

Tailored to perfection, but with enough ease and comfort to not be complicated. Easily accessible luxury is what Miuccia created, which is certainly what the Prada customer will look for during the economic hardship.

The Full Collection / 42 Pics
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Like a well produced play, Alexander McQueen once again finds a way to dominate the world of menswear. Expanding on his magical ability to capture a point in time and transform into a thing of the future, this season Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde meets demon barber Sweeny Tod. topped off with a little Jack the Ripper.

Showing heavily shadowed eyes alongside bulky furs and boxy coats, the dark and demonic side to old British traditions are brought out. Opening the show more suited looks for a cold winter out, most likely up to no good, then transitioning into day wear, every stage of day in a man’s life can bee seen. Which gave proper reason for the boxing gloves, sculpted leather breastplates, and aprons.

Displaying pure masculinity that would make it almost impossible to swap clothes with your other half and contribute to a woman’s play in “boyfriend dressing”.

The Full Collection / 45 Pics
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For Fall 2009 Frida Giannini did what Frida Giannini does best, putting her edgy rocker design aesthetic to good use – the collection can easily be viewed as rock meets punk & pop. Pants so snug to the point were they could mistakenly be seen as leggings and leopard-print knits that are sure to rival any animal out it the wild, made the collection fall short of nothing that people don‘t want at the moment.

Though the concept of a rock-chic man may not be new in today’s world of men’s fashion, the quality and design behind each piece that came down the Milan runway left for a lot to be desired.

As the show opened with a series of suits and shirts ranging in color, yet all coming together with there white collars – it wasn’t clear at first where the collection were to be heading. When the fourth and sixth looks made it’s way down the darkened runway, the direction in which the presentation was to take it’s turn became more present. Slim-fit pants, skinny ties, fresh furs, and cropped jackets all marked Frida’s vision of an edgy business man.

As the financial burden stresses those at work, the Fall 2009 Gucci man still knows how to celebrate life and isn’t at all brought down by hardship.

The Full Collection / 44 Pics
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Oversized knits and tightly snug pants, designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi build a strong silhouette for their first collection at the Gianfranco Ferré menswear line. As Gianfranco Ferré was known for his meticulous way with using structure in his works, the duo has undoubtedly chose to keep the late designs name in it’s modern relevance.

The past meets the not to distant future, is how you can describe the Fall 2009 Gianfranco Ferré show. Inspired by the sixties and early seventies, a color pallete of fresh winter whites, simmering silvers , and midnight blacks – was anything but re-worked vintage.

Perfectly portioned suits and pants made to fit each model as a glove, made for a sleek and easier way of movement. Against an icy blue background, the presentation will sure leave you standing out in the cold – just to get your hands on a piece of it.

The Full Collection / 37 Pics
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In today’s times there is always a frequent need for something new. So, Leave it to Angela Missoni to bring the house another step further into the modern world. With rich and dark colors, peg-legged jeans, and layering that would put any grunge rocker to shame – the Missoni man is no longer as safe and innocent as in previous seasons.

As fashion week proceeds, its coming to a point where a collection can not be talked about without mentioning the recession. This season’s Missoni man has undoubtedly been affected by the current financial stress – but still has a thirst for modern lux. As models walked down the darkened runway dressed in arm warmers, scuffed boots, and cardigans paired with scarves to match, it was clear the achieved look was that of a hard-edge unpredictable man.

Distressed seams, hand-painted graffiti lining in a herringbone coat, and the many patterns layered on top of one another may seem a little hard on the eyes upon first look. Though when looking into the fine detail and construction of each piece in it’s own, will surly be driving the loyal Missoni consumers wild.

The Full Collection / 36 Pics
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