HOMME TIMES | Men's Fashion From a New Perspective

Pringle of Scotland Fall 2010 Men’s

One collection, a million and one techniques. Who ever said that simplicity had to be boring? Clare Waight Keller gives us her all this season, fully equipped with sleeveless mohair degrade vests, detachable kilts, classic kilts, and enough knit to keep any knit lover going for a season or two. All of what we should expect from a Scottish luxury knitwear manufacturer at the top of their game.

While you may have had your eyes glued to the collection’s plush fur and knit blend mittens (almost reminiscent of Balenciaga’s Pre-Fall 2009, though these appear twice as cozy), you may have also overlooked an underlying message of versatility. Detachment, that is. From a shadow tartan coat that features a detachable kilt, to a trench accompanied by a detachable vest, if Neil Barrett has recently left your mind flooded with options too out in there left field, Pringle of Scotland well set you back onto a path of normality with a new edge. If your collar isn’t either knit, detachable, or snood-like next Fall, why bother?

Doing what the brand does best, our good ol’ reliable knits and wool this season are now come in cut-out lattice form (as seen in the house’s current pre-fall collection), blended with mohair, and even meticulously cut here and there to give you all the appeal of Balmain Homme, without later regret.

The Full Collection / 36 Pics
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Interview with Oliver Welton, Jil Sander FW10 Exclusive

Backstage at Jil Sander Fall 2010

Hailing from Elmer Olsen, an internationally renowned modeling agency, launching successful careers like Casey Taylor, Alex Loomans, and Gordie Walker, Welton landed one of the most coveted new-comer spots as a Jil Sander exclusive in Milan. You would be surprised to hear that he is actually originally from Chester in England, he moved to Canada at 12 years old and resides in Kelowna, BC ever since. After much favour from Raf Simons, there is no doubt that this will be the face to watch.

Before you did the show did you know of what a big impact it would have on your career?

No, I had no idea. I knew that Jil Sander was a good show to do, and obviously being exclusive was awesome to get, but I only realised what it might do for my career once I started talking to others about it.

What did you think of the industry before and how does that compare to how it really is?

To be honest, Fashion never really occured to me at all until after I became a model. Before that I was just coming out of my young teenage grunge phase, haha. I mean when I first started modelling, I began to imagine what it would be like to do Fashion Week and such, and what I thought then was definitely not how it actually is. Some parts are a little less glamourous than I first imagined, but definitely as fun as I hoped it would be.

Could you ever see yourself doing something like Jil Sander or becoming a model before?

Not at all, never even crossed my mind that I could ever get into this industry until I was scouted by my wonderful mother agent, Tara, from Elmer Olsen Models.

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Prada Fall 2010 Men’s

It’s a season of firsts for Miuccia Prada. Fall 2010 marks Micuccia’s first live broadcast online, the first time Prada’s pre-fall womenswear line is intertwined with her men’s show, and the first time (since Fall 08) that we aren’t hit in the face with a blatant and distinctive trend, such as studs or mesh. Unless of course, you count the nipped in waists, cropped tops, and double-roll collars.

Taking us on a nostalgic ride back to the point in time where the ’60s met the ’70s and created some pretty wild things, this season, Prada gives the axe to her seemingly increasing obsession with black, and uses mostly every other color but the darkened hue. Opening up the show with pieces that you would find in a man’s wardrobe on any given day of the week, then moving into more psychedelic prints and leaner looks, if the ’90s Kurt Cobain grunge “Rape Me” track threw you off, the cardigans and surrounding women’s looks would have helped to drag you back to the age of lava lamps.

Instead of channeling most of her energy into mesh and studs this season, double-roll collars with ribbed knit being the adding extra, now become Miccica’s object of affection. Appearing both on double breasted pea coats and patent coats.

While it may be less of a hardcore man compared to what we saw last year, how can you say no to a very dapper Mr. Rodgers?

The Full Collection / 50 Pics
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John Varvatos Fall 2010 Men’s

Romantic, refined, edgy, and slightly morbid – words that rarely fit well together, but somehow create the genius that is John Varvatos Fall 2010. If your one to think that suits are all the same no matter how you cut it, then think again. There is something oddly youthful here, and a quilted vest over a matching suit rarely screams out of the box.

Whether it was the seemingly millions of candles that acted as the collections backdrop or the shows rock ballads, this was Varvatos at his best. Compromising his aesthetic for no one, but managing to create something that would even satisfy a Balmain Homme-goer go crazy, Vartatos this season adds zips to standard buttoned up suits, fingerless gloves to the most classic of looks, and whilst using a cast of the industries freshest yet well known faces.

What’s not to love?

The Full Collection / 36 Pics
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Neil Barrett Fall 2010 Men’s

Do you sometimes find yourself undecided in your day’s get-up? Lost between two equally outstanding pieces? Well, why not wear both? Two halves equal a whole, the concept that currently make Neil Barrett’s world go round. Much like the fusions seen at Costume National just a day earlier, eclectic-ness appears to be in the air.

In a quick turnaround from last season’s almost-all neutral colored collection, the black that took a backseat in the Barrett’s Spring 2010 collection is now back with a vengeance. Re-working basics to a point of something that you would have to look at again and again to catch full detail of, the designer makes a grey skin tight snake skin pant something desirable, offering up a wider range in pant. Including visits from the leather insert trousers seen back in June, now longer.

As 00o00 spotted, if you happened to tune into this year’s Grammy Awards, you would have learned that Usher is already a fan of the collection. Wearing out a few of the collections looks, including a vest from the Barrett’s womenswear line that was also staged within the same show.

The Full Collection / 43 Pics
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