If you’ve been keeping track, we’ve played soccer with Frankie Morello, hockey with Dsquared², and now we’re going skiing with Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, at D&G.
Just as they did in Fall 2006, the pair goes back to where fall/winter fashion inevitably starts – in the snow. More whimsical than the usual sexually expressive D&G man,”Toy Boy” by Mika took to the soundtrack, with Mickey & Minnie Mouse making a guest appearance on shirt fronts and even backs. While there wasn’t any snow on the runway this time around, you were certainly made more than prepared for it. Oversized knit gloves and removable snood-like neck pieces, padded boots, plush furs, and ever shearling lined pants.
My favorite pieces came in the forms of a waxed denim coat, lined to the max. with fur, and a simple gray suit tailored to perfection, topped off with a chunky knee-grazing boot.
After experiencing one of New York’s worst blizzards, I can honestly say that, even though I’m not a fan of snow boots…I would definitely consider giving these a go.
Not leaving Frankie Morello designers, Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti, way out in left field to fend for themselves, Dean and Dan Caten also give into idea of…sports + menswear = something great. Last season, the duo known as Dsquared² took us camping. Taking you there and back again with ant covered shirts, denim/plaid combos, and all around outdoor campfire goodness. As you know, with the end of every Dsquared² show starts a new adventure.
So, where to this season? Answer, ice cold Canada.
Playing with the idea of hard and soft, literally, hockey’s dangerous reputation gets put on blast and somehow cleaned up. Goin big for their show openings, as per usual, this season we see Tokio Hotel’s Bill Kaulitz making his runway debut, in feathers, leather, and chains. Though, the backdrop featuring the ideal Dsquared² hockey rink was enough keep you reminded of where things were about to head.
Expanding on the fact that Halloween also just so happens to take place in the Fall, like something out of a slasher movie, models were bruised, battered, and drenched in blood. All from hockey related accidents, of course. Mimicking the idea of fresh blood onto the clothes shown, like the bloodstained in embroideries of Dior’s Spring 2006 couture collection, blood can now be found on your standard button-up. Appearing also on polo style shirts and sweaters, dripping from underneath a very Jason Voorhees style hockey mask.
Showing mainly a wide series of tougher leather looks, in all forms, from patent shorts to classic bomber jackets and padded knee pant, the collection also had a softer side. A side seen through a blazer with a lapel covered in black pailettes, embellished shimmering denim, a pailette covered coat with an attached inner canvas piece, and scarves drenched in sequins.
Makes you curious to see what the women’s show will look, doesn’t it?
Above, Fashion TV takes you backstage as models prep for the show, Nikola Jovanovic explains the make-up process, and the Caten twins talk you through the collection
On a Side Note – He may seem quite paranoid in the video (what’s a guy supposed to do when your half-naked and getting covered in what is most likely corn syrup?), wouldn’t Jacob Coupe be the perfect fit for the collection’s campaign?
From glam rock in ’08 to golden in ’010, Frida Giannini wraps up the almost 90 year Gucci heritage in 44 looks. Still injecting the brand with that special extra coolness that came attached to her when was first named creative director of the house, back in 2006.
Going for the ‘typical’ fall colors, without paying homage to wildlife (unlike Etro); a color palette of rich browns, camel, and navy get the job done this season. In a much more refined direction from last year’s David Bowie inspired Gucci man, there was more of a focus on technique, less on acid trip prints of polka dot and checkerboard squares. Instead, traditional prints/patterns were seen on scarves and on knits. With even the season’s soon to be ‘must-have bag’ going simpler, and just displaying the classic Gucci stripe. A little intermingling logo action here and there.
Though we are no longer stuck in the ’80s with Bowie, you can now find yourself a decade earlier in the ’70s. Pairing almost everything, from wool coat to wool blazer, with a cropped/cuffed pant or fine-gauge turtleneck.
Unexpected color blocking also making an appearance at points, a half mohair knit/half suede sweater that would have normally been done in a bulky and generic H&M way, was made desirable again in it’s almost perfect shrunken fit. A fit mimicked throughout much of the show. Appearing even on cropped trousers that were equipped with little button closures at it’s bottom.
Honestly speaking, going into this Fall 2010 season, I was truly a bit nervous to see if Frida Giannini would drop the whole slim-fit look. A sense of dress that eventually brought us to a mystifying part-pant/part-legging combo. But seeing as it’s still alive and well, what’s not to about the Gucci man? Mark Ronson will certainly be pleased.
Replacing her usual crop of Versace regulars with guys like newcomer Johannes Niermann, Donatella Versace beams us light-years away this Fall. Traveling far from the softness of her Spring 2010 collection, into an age where wrap sunglasses and knuckle dusters replace man clutches.
Drawing a large portion of her inspiration from Disney’s upcoming sci-fi flick, Tron Legacy, black becomes the base color of the future, with slim-fit and barely breathable acting as the silhouette. As a backdrop of numerous lines placed together to create a very Versace cyborg, acted as the backdrop, night becomes day; a soundtrack featuring noises of motorcycles racing by.
Opening up the show with Sean Orpy dressed in head to toe black, displaying a jacket with details similar to that of the recent Atelier Versace collection, the patent leather seen slithering up and down suits and shirts in Fall 2007 get transformed into full fledged patent inserts and pants. Mixing leather and wool, using stitching taking off into different directions to give off a robo feel, zippers come in packs of three at pockets, then fly solo, up the side of a leather top.
Injecting the collection with shocks of purple and plum, prints were scarce, except for their slight appearance on tops. Made to look the colorful lines created by a motorcycles every move, seen in the Tron Legacy trailer.
Mostly keeping fabrics sleek and smooth, you will also find raised leather coats and bags perforated with tiny slash-like cutouts, giving of a ‘just with showered in bullets…yet managed to come out unharmed’ appeal.
Invincible and unstoppable.
Above, Details Magazine takes you behind the scenes while Donatella preps the day before the show. Explaining her inspiration and the collection in under a minute.
On a Side Note – With a slight hand gesture, the sunglasses come off, and Donatella continues to tend her nails. Only Donatella.
Never one to leave us color deprived, Kean Etro has once again set out on a mission to bring some life into your winter wardrobe. Making an attempting at minimizing the blacks, grays, and other dismal hues that plague most of us once the temperature begins to drop, and scarves/gloves begin to appear. Despite the collection’s highly saturated and highly inanimate added extras, last season’s Etro man still lingers about…just here this season with more of a quirky sense of humor.
Stepping out of the box, or the end of the runway if you opened the show (see video), if nature was not the first thing that you picked up on as the show started with miniature birds and the sound of hooting owls in the backdrop, the colors to soon follow would have been enough to surely take you on a wild winter’s night ride. Typically, when you display looks upside down on ginormous picture frame, you would expect a whole lot of unusual, and very little normal. Though, cropping pants and displaying boots just as any other designer this season, nothing was too much out of the ordinary.
Aiming for a slimmer and a more classic fit, in every color that you would ever expect to see walking through a park in the midst of Fall, as leaves change color, leather transitions from green to brown in the form of bomber jackets and multi-pocket coats. Whilst, boot covers come in check patters and stop just at the knee.
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