It’s a season of firsts for Miuccia Prada. Fall 2010 marks Micuccia’s first live broadcast online, the first time Prada’s pre-fall womenswear line is intertwined with her men’s show, and the first time (since Fall 08) that we aren’t hit in the face with a blatant and distinctive trend, such as studs or mesh. Unless of course, you count the nipped in waists, cropped tops, and double-roll collars.

Taking us on a nostalgic ride back to the point in time where the ’60s met the ’70s and created some pretty wild things, this season, Prada gives the axe to her seemingly increasing obsession with black, and uses mostly every other color but the darkened hue. Opening up the show with pieces that you would find in a man’s wardrobe on any given day of the week, then moving into more psychedelic prints and leaner looks, if the ’90s Kurt Cobain grunge “Rape Me” track threw you off, the cardigans and surrounding women’s looks would have helped to drag you back to the age of lava lamps.

Instead of channeling most of her energy into mesh and studs this season, double-roll collars with ribbed knit being the adding extra, now become Miccica’s object of affection. Appearing both on double breasted pea coats and patent coats.

While it may be less of a hardcore man compared to what we saw last year, how can you say no to a very dapper Mr. Rodgers?

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Romantic, refined, edgy, and slightly morbid – words that rarely fit well together, but somehow create the genius that is John Varvatos Fall 2010. If your one to think that suits are all the same no matter how you cut it, then think again. There is something oddly youthful here, and a quilted vest over a matching suit rarely screams out of the box.

Whether it was the seemingly millions of candles that acted as the collections backdrop or the shows rock ballads, this was Varvatos at his best. Compromising his aesthetic for no one, but managing to create something that would even satisfy a Balmain Homme-goer go crazy, Vartatos this season adds zips to standard buttoned up suits, fingerless gloves to the most classic of looks, and whilst using a cast of the industries freshest yet well known faces.

What’s not to love?

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Do you sometimes find yourself undecided in your day’s get-up? Lost between two equally outstanding pieces? Well, why not wear both? Two halves equal a whole, the concept that currently make Neil Barrett’s world go round. Much like the fusions seen at Costume National just a day earlier, eclectic-ness appears to be in the air.

In a quick turnaround from last season’s almost-all neutral colored collection, the black that took a backseat in the Barrett’s Spring 2010 collection is now back with a vengeance. Re-working basics to a point of something that you would have to look at again and again to catch full detail of, the designer makes a grey skin tight snake skin pant something desirable, offering up a wider range in pant. Including visits from the leather insert trousers seen back in June, now longer.

As 00o00 spotted, if you happened to tune into this year’s Grammy Awards, you would have learned that Usher is already a fan of the collection. Wearing out a few of the collections looks, including a vest from the Barrett’s womenswear line that was also staged within the same show.

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Like a group of dapper nomads, riding boots challenge the Burberry’s shearling lined leather boots and Cavalli’s patent combats. If you have to single out a plain and simple message behind Massimiliano Giornetti’s latest collection for Salvatore Ferragamo, it is to maximize your options. From oversized knits to boots that cut a little under the knee, “think big” for next fall, should now be added to your list of to-do’s.

As boots sweep Fall 2010 and take over runways from Milan to Paris, Giornetti leaves you to face the daunting decision of suede or leather? Bowed velvet for you you loafer lovers. In every shade of color that you would ever associate with fall and the year’s colder temperatures, this season’s Ferragamo man is more of a free spirit, with very high standards of living.

Playing with more patterns this time around, as opposed to his Spring 2010 collection, Giornetti revamps plaid and makes head to toe purple something chic. Creating for a timeless collection that transcends both age and experience.

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Last season, Roberto Cavalli took it easy on the print and patterns, channeled most of his energy into rich embroideries, ribbed motorcycle pants, and overall a created simpler man. 6 months later, the designer pumps up the pattern, does a little cropping, and introduces us to oxford-style combat boots. If you need more proof that Cavalli man of yesteryear has taken a back seat, this will sure convince you. Just as polished but quite the rebel punk, Roberto does an about-face targets a different younger clientele.

About this time last year, Roberto Cavalli presented us with loafers, slip-ons, and slippers. Speed things up a year and say “hello”, to a tougher man. Mixing leather and plaid and opening the show with British import Jacob Coupe, things get a little British this season. Refined striped blazers contrasted with cropped trousers in plaid, you will come to find that no two plaids are hardly ever the same. As layering is also a strong point in Cavalli’s work, we see it this season, as with any other, in print scarves with enough open area to not put your mind into overdrive with an unhealthy amount of print.

Moving into more traditional territory as the show progressed, slashed jeans backed with mesh and denim helped keep up the attitude of the show. With luxurious double-breasted coats featuring lightest moving fur taking center stage. At end, fading to black with 4 final black suits to leave you with the everlasting Cavalli impression.

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Only about a year into there stint as designers of Gianfranco Ferré’s menswear line, and it is as if they were there from the start.

Before Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi took the reigns at Ferré, the line you see before your eyes was not as edged out nor as versatile as you see today. Last fall, the unstoppable duo introduced the Ferré man to slender silhouettes and extreme structure.

This season we are now brought longer, looser, and more luxurious looks. All crafted with the same attitude that was brought about when the two designers first debut at the house.

Blurring the lines where ages meet and pieces can no longer be worn by those in different age ranges, the Aquilano and Rimondi managed to go classic and futuristic all at once. Furs worn with suits fit for a night at the opera, leather pants paired with contrast colored knits and strapped boots (perfect for a cold day in New York), it was Gianfranco Ferré through every state of a man’s life. Past, present, and future.

It was an honor to get to witness the show in person.

My shots from the show/backstage to come soon, the full collection after the jump.

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