Les Hommes Fall 2010 – all of next season’s trends done in such a such a subtle manner, you can’t help but be interested. Multi-zip jackets, above-calf boots, mutant half-knit/half-canvas coats, and even things to keep your mouth covered. If you have decidedly chosen to tune out of fashion week for some reason, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch have you covered.

Moving away from last fall’s transparent tops, lace button-ups, and renaissance style collars, at Les Hommes this season you will find a military going man with refined taste and edgy attitude. Opening the show with wide trousers that cut just above combat boots, then slowly moving into more body snug territory, and keeping a consistent constant between the two shapes throughout the show, your basic pant now features an asymmetrical flap and little zip detailing that will match your coat.

Offering up as much variety as one needs to make it from fall to winter.

The Full Collection / 40 Pics
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It’s as simple as basic math. 1 knit coat + 1 canvas jacket = 1 completely new Costume National jacket. Taking the pre-school concept of cut and paste to all new level, Ennio Capasa plays with texture and saves you the hassle of finding two separate piece to throw together to create one winning look, this coming Fall. Kind of like the time when Miccuia Prada faded mohair into just about everything back in Fall 2007.

Being quite picky when it comes coats, rarely do I find a coat that I will truly like all throughout a season. But how many coats do you know are the mutant and beautiful offspring of knit, canvas, mohair, and satin? Not many. While the technique of ombre is fading one color into the next, in his latest collection Ennio Capasa fades on fabric into the next. Doing so in what I would like to consider the coolest way possible – crisp, clean, and with the right measure of edge. Using a color palette of darkened hues to create a mood perfect for winter and subtle greys to showcase how you should be spending the season’s more relaxed days.

The Full Collection / 37 Pics
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Celebrating the 100th milestone for the Italian fashion house launched in 1910, Gildo, Paulo, and Anna Zegna, step forth onto the runway and mark the fourth generation of the family that’s been their since the very start of it all.

Sticking with the sophisticate yet casual aesthetic that built the brand, this season, comfort meets refined in the form of knit collars, buttery leather coats, squared herringbone ties, and not too heavy layering. All of which in shades of blues, greens, grays, and black from time to time. Until the end of the show which entailed a celebratory series parade of perfectly tailored suits and other business-type looks in grey.

The Full Collection / 42 Pics
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It takes true talent (and your way around textile)  to produce a collection that can make you both visually pleased and dizzied, all at once. From far, you might catch Alexander McQueen’s latest man as normal, but step a little bit closer and he isn’t your old run-of-the-mill kind of man. In a printed room with beams and floors both covered in skulls and dice intertwined to create an optical illusion-type print — if you have not come to love McQueen’s slightly grim and sometimes ironic prints, now is the best time for you to look away.

Evolving from last season’s paint stained pieces to more prints than your eye can take in at one moment, PVC jackets and face masks (that might bring back memories of Antony Hopkins in ‘Silence of the Lambs’) take on McQueen’s British flair. If you are looking for a Fall alternative to Romain Kremer’s Spring 2010 mouth covering tops or couldn’t get enough of the Dior’s extreme PVC Fall 2003 turtlenecks, look no further. What would normally give off a bondage and beyond kinky vibe, only put’s the phrase “it’s only human-nature” to work.

Managing to not make a mess out of what seemed like a million prints — zips, knits, and fur brought home the 36 look collection. Symbolically taking you on a journey from light to dark, starting off with a printed suit at the beginning of the show, to the black PVC that was it’s end.

The Full Collection / 36 Pics
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When it comes to personal style and highlights of Milan fashion week, running into Lasse Pedersen in his Burberry Fall 2009 snood and Albert Krarup in his stripped mohair knit sweater (I need that sweater) certainly takes home the win for me, backstage at Burberry.

Though, as soon as I went backstage after the show, I saw Tom Nicon and Alexandre Imbert (both of which long-time favorites).

Alexandre came up to me first and said, “Comme si estas?”….”How do you say how are you nice to meet you in Italian?”. Then, we talked a little more and he really turned out to be exactly what I expected (all good). He was really funny and friendly and even told me of his Prada casting later (sadly he didn’t get cast in the show ).

Models, they make fashion week all the more memorable.

More Backstage Model Shots
Note: All pics belong to Homme Times, so if posting elsewhere please provide proper visible credits.

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Remember the time when Hedi Slimane and Dior Homme were inseparable. So much so that the former designer used the a very ‘Lagerfeld’ tactic of shooting his own campaigns, rather than enlisting someone else to send across the message that their latest collection was trying to achieve. Well, those years are apparently gone and for the past few season’s now, Karl Lagerfeld has assumed the role of the man notably responsible for his drastic (and for the better) weight loss.

Turning away from the high contrast shots that Slimane once made Dior Homme goers go wild and adding a bit more depth, along with a wider color spectrum, (even though the collection itself was largely based around neutrals), in a very basic set up, Lagerfled shoots Argentinian model Juan Manuel Arancibia (Bananas Models).

Selectively highlighting the newer and wider shapes brought about by the house’s current designer Kris Van Assche, rather than the many transparencies seen all thorough the collection back in in June, a minimalistic and less contrived approach is taken to the very light and easy-going collection. Over-all adding a new sense to the viewers eyes, instead of screaming, “your clearly looking at an ad campaign right now”.