After bidding adieu to the constraint of traditional runway displays for the house’s menswear line, back in Spring 2009, Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni continues to find strength and control within presentations.

Extending the Marni man’s very minimal wardrobe to include more graphic patterns in recent collections, For Spring 2011, Castiglioni marches forward with familiar shapes, restructuring age-old basics to form a fresh and youthful look.

Using a play in proportion to carry out the task of complimenting the Marni aesthetic of a natural approach to dressing, tops come bonded together as one, both in different lengths to make for a feeling of ‘layering for comfort’, as jackets are shorted with sleeves rolled up.

Going strong after quite a few seasons of not presenting a non-slightly cropped trouser, the length of your standard pant, now featuring double-buttons at crotch, still remains reduced, yet cut to achieve the right meeting of comfort and professionalism. Producing lengthier shorts than what appears to be the norm in Milan, pleated shorts reflect the designer’s love of contrast by appearing with a check pattern and ombré effect.

Fully taking the Marni man to new leaps and bounds.

Tomek Szczukiecki & Matthew Hitt at the Marni Spring 2011 presentation, shot by Homme Times

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Celebrating it’s centenary with a majestic exhibition this season, at the Ermenegildo Zegna centennial show, the house showcased a collection that proved the label has two feet firmly planted in the 21st century, but still recognizes it’s roots.

Largely based in neutrals, browns, blues and burnt sienna, a perfectly fitting cast of models walked the show dressed in pieces that embodied the Ermenegildo Zegna appeal, luxurious clothes for everyday.

Translating the beautiful color palette into a luxurious and easy-going collection, perfect for spring and summer, the new wardrobe of the Zegna man now includes well-crafted pieces such as slim-cut suits, braided leather jackets, and collarless shirts. All executed with an unparalleled quality that became very apparent in the fabric selection, which brought us a light seersucker and posh leather.

At the end of the presentation, the audience arose for to form a much-deserved standing ovation, celebrating 100 years of style through the likes of timeless collection.

Ermenegildo Zegna Spring 2011, shot by Homme Times

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Stripping away the extra layers and additional fabric of last season, at Giuliano Fujiwara, designer Masataka Matsumura produces a pure and linear series of contemporary pieces.

Founding the basis of the collection on the joining of opposites, Matsumura builds modern looks using traditional fabrics such as cotton, dry wool and linen.

Voicing a message of contrast from the shows start of a black double-breasted coat with contrast sleeves, to it’s end that featured a coat in likewise make-up, the Fujiwara man finds himself living for the comfort of today, yet prepping for the future.

Using lines and geometric cuts to create a look beyond current time, cropped trousers and shorts are both square cut at bottom, paneled with graphic patterns from time to time.

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For his 40th anniversary collection, Roberto Cavalli presented a wardrobe befitting himself, and that’s exactly what he aimed for. “In any case I made a collection that is me and that’s very good for me as I am an elderly youth and also for my son who is very young and very handsome”, the designer said.

The collection of looks made for an elegant and vibrant wardrobe. This wardrobe included some of Roberto Cavalli’s signature pieces such as leather, shown in a blue suede jacket with a spine of studs. Another one of his classics – animal prints – was replaced, however, with a plethora of crazy patterns that he picked up on a trip in Indonesia. These prints made some of the best pieces of the collection, but you can’t live in prints everyday and night, you also need suits, which is why Roberto presented a multitude of dark colored separates that were perfect for getting through the black-tie affairs. The main vibe that shown from the collection was rocker, a classic Cavalli style, which makes it perfect for his anniversary.

The showing in the courtyard of the Palazzo Del Senato in Milan started off with three gothic ninjas who took a stroll down the runway to light an olympic flame of sorts. This was as far as the celebrating lasted, however. The rain started to drizzle before the models could took their finale walk, so the finale walk was canceled. It was a shame that when the designer actually had something to celebrate, the joy didn’t exactly shine through.

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Sarah Burton’s debut collection for renowned fashion house Alexander McQueen was a respectful beginning to a hopefully long career as creative director at the brand. The collection titled “Pomp and Circumstance” had medley of influences ranging from Eton schoolboy to the far reaches of the Byzantine empire.

Burton condensed her inspirations into a beautiful 21 look collection that included looks such as an austere coat, paired with fitted linen trousers and a red undershirt. As well as A pair of loosened slacks, topped off with a gradient blazer that appeared as if a spotlight was being shone down upon it.

The collection is displayed here in a lookbook featuring a range of some of the most interesting faces in the industry today.

For the full collection, click here

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