Sarah Burton’s first solo collection for Alexander McQueen seemed to be a tribute to the late McQueen, or rather, where he got his inspirations. “This is the England of Alexander McQueen, a place of eclectic historical and cultural references,” the brand stated in a release.

Burton obviously didn’t have a hard time finding inspiration but did seem to have a little trouble containing it. The collection was a medley of historical references, with just about as many different styles to choose from. Titled “Pomp and Circumstance” the collection took World War 1 references and combined them with the privileged Eton schoolboy look. These influences produced looks running the gamut from tight to loose in style, both in jackets and pants. Byzantine references that seemed to carry over from the Fall 2010 women’s show translated to prints on a jacket and a pair of pants, both of which were standout pieces of the collection. Other standout looks included an austere coat paired with fitted linen trousers and a red undershirt. A pair of loose slacks topped off with a gradient blazer that appeared as if a spotlight was being shone down upon it was also beautiful.

While this collection may not have been the stellar show some of us were hoping for you have to keep in mind the circumstances and the pressure that Ms. Burton was under. I feel that it was a fitting beginning to her tenure at the brand, but I am not going to judge too harshly just yet.

The Full Collection / 21 Pics
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Going more graphic this season, Italo Zucchelli takes more of a risk with the look synonymous with Calvin Klein, displaying American sportswear in all new proportion.

Building up a stronger and more athletic man, in complete contrast to the transparent-high Spring 2010, cropped styles brought through in zippered jackets and logoed shirts printed with ‘Calvin’, aid in Zucchelli’s draw of inspiration from rugby. As well as, the display of bold color-blocked separates, including athletic shorts literally ‘blocked’ with color distinct shapes.

Italo Zucchelli: “The inspiration of the collection is very graphic that’s why I had bold prints, a lot of jacquard and the big check at the end, and I wanted it to be very graphic also with the shapes, the cropped styles and the logo. It’s kind of inspired by rugby actually, I put it on these very strong guys and it looks very masculine and it’s quite sexy. It’s quite utilitarian, it’s kind of like a khaki fabric and it was in blue and then it was in khaki also in the show with like this new carrot pant, shaped like a carrot and a big shirt. I thought it was like a sort of uniform for the city.”

The Full Collection / 41 Pics
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Milan Vukmirovic’s second off-the-runway presentation for the luxury label Trussardi 1911 was classic with a twist. It was the Italian playboy look their clothing is famous for, mixed with pops of color and a range of patterns.

The collection was a basic compilation of jackets, knits, coats, shirts, and trousers. There were basic pieces but the items were also done in patterns. The patterns include Native American motifs, camouflage, and leopard usually shown in jackets, bags, belts, and even shoes. They are quite conflicting prints which makes for a conflicted collection. But there were also some striped and plaid items which made quite a bit more sense.

The brief collection was considerably very wearable, leaving one with a large array of pieces that would dazzle the streets.

The Full Collection / 25 Pics
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Backstage at Costume National Spring 2011, taken by Homme Times

In the ever popular neutral color palette, just a tad darker,  John Varvatos rolls up pants, readying you for a stroll on the beach.

The beginning was all about the suiting with a variety of youthful coats, blazers, vests, and trousers, all accented with the classic Varvatos summer-scarves that were done in plaid. The plaid eventually moved from scarf, to shirt, to jacket, and finally on to the complete suit. Although classy, the whole collection was done to look un-done, which carried throughout the collection and added to the appeal of easy dressing. Suits turn into mostly tan colored separates, and eventually to the only color in the show – purple. The purple was only used in a few looks, hues varying by item. The purple then weened out as knit tops as pops in the darker part of the show. The final looks, all black, showcased a masterful layering technique, like the rest of the show.

One of the best ways I can describe John Varvatos is “a youthful elegance”, basically the way young people dress to look nice but it’s not strict, always free and easy.

The looks in this show are prime examples of the reason why I always love Varvatos’ collections.

The Full Collection / 36 Pics
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